2.6 build

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cumins01

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I had Scheid and Haisley make me a 2.6 engine quote. The question is both places want me to run coated bearings, ceramic and teflon coated pistons. Why is this? Good idea or bad. I can see the pistons but why bearings. Thanks in advance for the imput. Also is it worth running 14mm main and head studs? I have heard problems with running those studs.
 
i would say pistons for sure, wouldnt think i would on the bearings. i would do 14mm main studs and stick with just 12mm head studs.
 
they quoted 14mm main and head, fire rings, coated pistons and bearings, all cam bearings, cam, head work, balance work, rod work, std cummins pistons, std cummins rings, and some other new parts. oil pump, gaskets, etc.
 
I do not think 14mm mains are needed for most builds. I know of some trucks making good power and turning some RPMS that still have 12mm main studs.

Also what usually fails first on these engines? I dont think I've ever heard of one that breaks a crank or takes out the bearings because the main studs stretched. Its almost always a piston that melts or cracks, a rod that bends, or a vavle train issue that ends up in catastrophic failure.
 
We have a 6.0 PSD with 3 seasons of pulling on it. Coated brgs & pistons still look like new!!. Coating protects form wear and provides less friction - no you won't be able to feel it, but it works!.
Think about cryo treating rods and valve train as well.
 
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red dodge2 said:
i would say pistons for sure, wouldnt think i would on the bearings. i would do 14mm main studs and stick with just 12mm head studs.
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Agreed! If your talking 12V build they have 14mm main studs, 24V's have 12mm main studs. As far as the head studs like above stick with 12mm head studs. PDP blew the bottom end out of Problem Child's motor this year when the pump hung open, and the 12mm ARP's kept the head securely in place. Good enough for me!

cumins01 said:
they quoted 14mm main and head, fire rings, coated pistons and bearings, all cam bearings, cam, head work, balance work, rod work, std cummins pistons, std cummins rings, and some other new parts. oil pump, gaskets, etc.
Click to expand...

I would go 12mm head studs, fire rings, coated pistons if its in the budget, cam bearings(again if in budget), head work, balance rotating assembly, AFTERMARKET pistons, aftermarket rings, and whatever else PDP recommends.

getblown5.9 said:
I do not think 14mm mains are needed for most builds. I know of some trucks making good power and turning some RPMS that still have 12mm main studs.

Also what usually fails first on these engines? I dont think I've ever heard of one that breaks a crank or takes out the bearings because the main studs stretched. Its almost always a piston that melts or cracks, a rod that bends, or a vavle train issue that ends up in catastrophic failure.
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97-back = OEM 14mm main studs. 98-up = OEM 12mm main studs TJ. ;)
 
Got Smoke? said:
97-back = OEM 14mm main studs. 98-up = OEM 12mm main studs TJ. ;)
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I know this, what I am saying is if you have 12mm mains now because you have a newer block, its not a necessity to drill and tap for 14mm. a good set of 12mm main studs will be plenty for most builds.
 
ya for sure pure diesel power is the way to go. they have very good customer service. they talk to you like a normal person to. they are descently priced to
 
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