2003 Engine Rebuild

FlyingHighRacin

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Nov 12, 2008
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445
Well long story short I had an injector that was leaking way worse than I thought and it blew out the crank bearings.
With that being said I took the truck to my mechanic to start the rebuild. I will try to get over to his shop tomorrow to snap some pics of the truck and motor. Its already pulled and partly disassembled.
Here is what is going down with the rebuild
Head has been pulled and sent to Engine Rebuilders of Toledo. It is going to be ported and HD springs and titanium retainers will be added. Not sure wether to have it o-ringed or fire ringed.
The crank is going to be ground and polished and I'm gonna throw in a set of 12V shot peened rods.
The block is also going to ERT to be bored for a set of Cummins .020 over pistons. It will obvisouly get all new Cummins bearings and gaskets.
And like I said I will be sure to get as many pictures of the process as I can:thumbup:

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With your mods just use a stock MLS gasket and studs. No need for rings of any kind....fire or O.
 
Well I'm not sure what my sig exactly says anymore cause I'm only on the forums through my phone
Anyways I'm currently runnin a Super B Special, I have arp studs, 150hp injectors, TC 60% cp3 with wild rail and cprv, ad150, and will be running a SSR. I'm also planning on switching over to a set of towing twins. Probably 62/475 combo. That's why I was asking about the oring fire ring. Also will be adding TCs adaptor and dual feed to get more fuel, water meth and possibly 180s when I do the twins. Plus down the road if I decide to push for even more HP. Right now I'm goin for the 650-700 mark and its gonna be my play, tow, dd rig.

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You have more injector now than a 62/475 combo knows what to do with....adding bigger ones even with twins will get you nothing but smoke and heat. That combo is nowhere near needing fire or O rings. Make sure everything is flat and put it together right with a MLS gasket and you'll be fine for years to come.
Be more concerned with building the right set of compounds with a good drive pressure ratio than putting in rings now.
 
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Thanks for the info guys. This will be my first rebuild so I'm still learning Forgot to throw in there that I will be adding hardened push rods and the whole rotating assemby will be balanced Dumb question but what kind of gasket is the mls gasket I know its a head gasket but is it a different thickness or material Also is it a Cummins gasket or another maker

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So you guys think with this set up and some good tuning with the SSR ill be able to hit 650+HP

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So you guys think with this set up and some good tuning with the SSR ill be able to hit 650+HP

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I would think you should already be there. I have Flux 1.2's which are alot smaller than what you currently are running. I did 668hp at Alligator's Dyno a few months back, running TNTR.
 
MLS is what comes stock... There are two thicker ones you can buy, but just use stock unless you need extra clearance for something..
 
Thanks swole Also would you guys recommend getting arp bolts for the rods and mains Or is with what I'm gonna do with the truck are oem fine

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After my last carnage, I'd buy heavy duty rod bolts at least. Of couse my monotherms were heavier than stock pistons...

Mainstuds certainly aren't needed for you power goals...

But, peace of mind is always a good thing...
 
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