24v upgrades wanted

[Verdorbene69]

I have an 02 24v second generation and looking to get head studs, injectors and valve adjustment done all at the same time. I was wondering how difficult it is to do these things for a novice/ weekend individual with simple hand tools? I was considering having a diesel mechanic do this but, I find that rates are not consistent and prices are all over the place. If you are a diesel mechanic or have done this before what is the time one could expect to spend completing these jobs?

Valve adjustment is described on -

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/f...prog=1&lang=en

The studs replacement procedure will be done one at a time done with interval torque sequence as per manufactures recommendations. I have read several posts and viewed many videos on injector replacement/ install and believe with a second set of eyes and maybe hands this can all be completed with simple tools at my house versus paying someone. Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Also, if anyone has a good diesel mechanic within 100 miles of Scranton, PA (18452) I would be willing to travel.
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2002 Quad CUMMINS SLT, LB, 3.54, H.O. - 6 speed, Edge Comp, Autometer Z series gauges (Fuel, Boost, Pyro), Dynamat extreme interior (doors, floor and rear of cab), Line-x bedliner and color matched lower rockers, Walboro 392, Pacbrake turbo mount, ATS Intake Manifold, AFE Stage II air intake.

 

[VMacKenzie]

I think it's definitely doable, however I think it's a bit much for one weekend if you haven't ever done it before. Installing headstuds to do it right is tedious and time consuming, although once you get going and in a rhythm it might roll along reasonably fast. You'll want to do a good job clearing & cleaning the gunk and crud from the holes, bottom tap, etc. and take your time doing a proper & consistent torque procedure.

I suggest going after the studs first and make sure that goes off without a hitch; as part of that you have to at least check valve lash. Drive it a week or two and get a couple retorques done, then tackle injectors another weekend.

Injectors isn't as sensitive to careful workmanship as head studs but just keep things clean, clean any corrosion off the tips of the lines and be consistent torquing the line nuts. When I swap injectors I remove the air horn, remove all the small blue line retainers but leave everything else in place. . .no need to completely remove lines since you can easily flex them enough to pop the injector tubes out. Once you're done I never bleed the lines, I bump the starter to reprime the VP44 then just crank it. . . usually starts firing in 10-30 seconds of cranking.