2nd to 3rd shift free rev?

NickTF

NickTF

Single turbo turd.
Joined
Jun 4, 2007
Messages
5,887
After adjusting the governor among some other non related things I noticed the trans wanting to free rev between the 2nd to 3rd shift. Governor adjustment consisted of tightening them down. I now have it by loosening the governor assembly such that when letting the trans shift automtically that there's no free rev between the shifts. But, when shifting manually with the column shifter the free rev is there between the 2nd to 3rd shift. The 1st to 2nd shift is fine automatically or manually.

Also, when applying more pedal/throttle the free rev between the 2nd and 3rd shift disappears.

I looked at my TV cable and it looks to be in perfect adjustment (wot position on the pedal is right at the wot position on the tv lever of the trans).

Ideas?
 
Where is that? How do I adjust? Is it similar to adjusting the 2nd gear band? Thanks. Sorry, I have limited knowledge about these transmissions.
 
Yes, it's the band adjustment on the outside of the tranny. I have seen tv cable adjustments cause it too.
 
Well how should the adjustment be made? Tighten, loosen, etc.???
 
Well regarding the throttle valve consider that in tightening the governor the idle went up. so I had to adjust accordingly by lowering the idle, which in turn would cause the rest position of the throttle valve cable to be farther back. I just don't want to adjust the throttle valve cable and have it bind at wot!
 
I pulled up a diagram from a parts diagram I have from mopar. The part is described as "SCREW, Trans Kick Down Band
Adjusting, .5-20x2.54"

Looks like it's by the dipstick on the passenger side of the trans. Do I tighten or loosen accordingly? I have a Haynes manual at home but am eager to know. Thanks!

Does this linke sound right?

94+ Ram AT band adjustment
 
Chrysler calls the second gear band the "kickdown band" in the torqueflites so we are referring to the same thing.

Basically what happens in the 2-3 shift is that the intermediate band releases the direct drum (it wraps around it) and the direct clutch pack is applied. Improper timing with the two events will either cause a binding or flare issue.

I'd try tightening that band up a bit and seeing if your issue goes away.
 
Adjust it as per spec Nick, you don't want to have it too tight or third gear will apply before the band is released......not good!

Jim
 
Well it's definitely not the tv cable, it moves immediately when the pedal is pressed! On my way to the store for a retarded in-lb wrench lol. Everything i have only goes down to 20ft-lbs.
 
NickTF said:
Well it's definitely not the tv cable, it moves immediately when the pedal is pressed! On my way to the store for a retarded in-lb wrench lol. Everything i have only goes down to 20ft-lbs.
Click to expand...

You don't really need one IMHO. Just tighten up the adjuster stud to snug and back it off from there. I've been doing it that way for a while now with no issues.
 
Good, cause the only one I found was $80 and i'm not spending that on a wrench that will be used 3 times in its life.
 
i am lost with trannys.to me it sounds like a line pressure problem.just my 2cents
 
I adjusted the front band and it has helped a ton. Think it still needs to be tightened just a hair, the free rev is still there but reduced about 80% of what it was.

I don't suspect I have any binding issues but if it was too tight could someone describe the behavior of the trans so I know what to look out for?

Thanks for the advice guys!
 
zstroken said:
Binding will result in a broken shaft.
Click to expand...

So there would be no tell tail signs before a shaft broke it would just instantaneously snap the first time running through the gears?

Just trying to get a clear picture and want to know what to look for.
 
Says in the link that pre-mature clutch wear would show up. I guess broken shafts would be a result of the additional line pressure and harder shifting at wot of a performance trans vs. the stock piece?
 
I wouldnt worry about it Nick. Josh(teddy bears) truck has done it since we put his built goerend in it. It revs just a second between 2nd and 3rd gear if you shift manually under light to medium throttle. If you are on the throttle hard there is no free rev, and it never does it if you arent manually shifting. Its just the nature of the best i believe.

Eric
 
Cummins Driver said:
I wouldnt worry about it Nick. Josh(teddy bears) truck has done it since we put his built goerend in it. It revs just a second between 2nd and 3rd gear if you shift manually under light to medium throttle. If you are on the throttle hard there is no free rev, and it never does it if you arent manually shifting. Its just the nature of the best i believe.

Eric
Click to expand...

Ok, I think I'll probably just let it be. I'd rather have the small rev up then cause another issue. Too many things I want to do besides having to pull out this trans because I couldn't tolerate a 2 tenths of a second free rev between one shift lol.
 
NickTF said:
Says in the link that pre-mature clutch wear would show up. I guess broken shafts would be a result of the additional line pressure and harder shifting at wot of a performance trans vs. the stock piece?
Click to expand...

I would think that a broken shaft would be an extreme case. I know that at light throttle pressures the 2-3 shift timing isn't 100% correct and overlaps a touch. I'm too lazy to mess with it and there haven't been broken shafts here.

NickTF said:
Ok, I think I'll probably just let it be. I'd rather have the small rev up then cause another issue. Too many things I want to do besides having to pull out this trans because I couldn't tolerate a 2 tenths of a second free rev between one shift lol.
Click to expand...

A 2-3 flare can also cause burned direct clutches as well. I haven't heard about it so much on torqueflites, but it seems to be a somewhat common problem on the Ford c4 transmissions (work exactly the same as a torqueflite).

I feel that you can get them to the point of being fairly good in an automatic valve body, but there will always be a bit of variance based on throttle pressure, etc. Full manual valve bodies seem to be a bit easier to set up for me at least.
 
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