3 Position lockup switch 06 48re

Goinbyyabig

Goinbyyabig

Free Thinker, Innovator
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Apr 12, 2009
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185
I have searched and read at least a dozen threads about this, and come up with a lot of inconsistency about how and why to use a resistor in the wiring. I would think the computer would not like to see the lockup wire disconnected at any time, therefore the resistor is needed, but where it has been said to place it doesn't make sense.
I also see guys installing a second lockup solenoid to satisfy the computer, when the switch is in the manual unlock position, and this seems appropriate to me. I would also think a resistor could be used for this purpose, to duplicate the ohms that the solenoid creates, but would it also be connected to power on the other side? (like the solenoid)?
I have seen drawings with the resistor between the lockup switch and the trans wiring, but when the switch is in the off position, it does nothing, so why put it in? The computer can't "see" it??
I have EFI live, can I just "kill" a code and run without the resistor?
Please discuss...
 
ECM needs to see a given resistance or else it thinks the solenoid failed.

My resistor is on the ground side of the switch and after 6-years, still locking solid.
 
Forgive me if I don't understand, but isn't the computer seeing an open circuit with the switch in the manual unlock position? Meaning cutting the wire going to #7 and running it to a toggle switch, double pole double throw, with the center position connecting the factory computer wire to nothing?
I intend to ground the wire going into the trans for manual lockup, one switch "on" position, and hook the factory computer wire to the trans wire for pcm controlled lockup, in the other "on" position, and disconnect the wire in the middle position, for manual unlock.
I think the computer will see an open circuit in the "unlock" position, and adding a resistor to the ground wire would only be connected to the computer if the switch is in manual lock position, right? So what satisfies the computer's need to see resistance when in unlock mode?
 
So...100 views and nobody actually knows how and where to use this resistor? Kinda disappointed.... I thought this was a common thing....Maybe it is, only to lock the convertor but not to unlock it...
 
Resistor goes on the ground side of the switch.

And it's ONLY to lock the converter when desired, it CAN unlock it if your below ECM lockup threshold.
 
I guess I should explain my reasons further...I have a Gear Vendors, and when downshifting it, or disengaging it, it can't be in lockup or it feels like I got rearended by a semi going 80. Therefore, I want the ability to manually unlock the convertor. Upshifting the unit in lockup isn't nearly as bad, as I can release the throttle and save some of the harsh engagement shock to the whole driveline. I have read that others have done the three way switch, but was looking for a more detailed understanding of what they did. I fully understand how to wire an engage only, single pole single throw lockup switch. In this application, it does not matter what side of the switch the resistor goes in, as it is only connected to anything while the switch is energized.
 
I installed a typical lockup switch, tied into the wire at the trans and ran it through a single pole single throw switch then put a 33ohm 1/2watt resistor in line before the ground. This way I had control of locking the converter before the computer called for it, but it would still lock when commanded by the computer. I ran it like that for a while before I had to rebuild my engine and trans. I put in a Goerend valve body with the rebuild, and the guy I got it from told me that it was a full manual valve body so I only wired power to the trans and a switch for the converter and a switch for Over Drive. This way I had full control of the converter and OD. Everything functioned, but it turned out my valve body was not a full manual body. I got fault codes for the trans right away but the light went off after a few key cycles. I am sending the valve body to Goerend to make it a full manual body now.

I believe that if you run the wire from the trans to your switch and connect one of the circuits back to the stock wire that you cut, that would allow the torque converter to operate like stock. Then you run the second circuit through your resistor then to ground, that would engage the lockup manually. This way with the switch in the off position, the converter would be unlocked. You will probably get a fault code for the lockup solenoid like this, but I think it will function the way you want.

If you have other questions, I have worked with Dave and Craig at Goerend and they are very helpful, I'd give them a call.
 
I have a lockup wired in with a resitor on the ground side inline have no issues no codes i am also running a goerends valvebody.
 
I also have a lockup with resister on the ground side 2 years no problems....
 
I have called Goerend's, left messages with a (very pleasant) woman for Dave to return my call, which he has not done. I sent him an e-mail with the full description of what I'm trying to do, and no response on that either. I guess I am on my own.

I don't know if there is a different way to write what I want to do or not....seems it is difficult to grasp the thought that I want to unlock the convertor manually at any time, without going into limp mode.

I understand how to wire the switch and resistor to create a manual lock; this is the easy part.

Maybe I will just start trying stuff, kill codes, and see if I can get what I want.

Uncharted territory, nothing new....
 
I'm of no help, but I too wanted to put a 3 way switch in my 97 to stop lockup when I had it, so you're not the only one...

Have you tried searching google???
 
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