47re help needed

[dieselstudent11]

I installed a rebuilt 47re recently that is a mild build with single disc and valve body. Before my first drive I hooked up gauge to accumulator port and its reading 80-90 at idle in drive and 125psi at WOT. The trans also felt like it was slipping when I drove the truck and it heated up fast, I stopped driving before it could reach 200. I checked the oil cooler flow and its all good. I changed the fluid and filter and found a decent amount of crap in the bottom of the pan. I took it out again and still felt slippy especially in TC lockup and maxed at 125psi.

So I took it out the next day and then it put out 125-135 at idle and 150-165 at full pedal. It didnt feel like it was slipping as bad but in TC lockup it slips worse than the worn out stock trans.

Finally I took it out today and its reading between 150 and 175 psi at idle and at wide open throttle. Still slips like an sob in overdrive lockup also.

Now, in park and neutral only I also have a rhythmic vibration that goes up and down with rpms that was not present before this transmission was installed. Only in neutral and park, no other gears.

i think the transmission guy really screwed me on this one. Anyone know what may be wrong?

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my truck is a 12 valve with no fuel plate 16.5 timing and a governor spring kit.

 

[CREED1]

I would suspect that your probably blowing thru that single disk converter.

 

[zfaylor]

I would suspect that your probably blowing thru that single disk converter.

This ^^

Might be hard to believe given the mild mods you have.

Doesn't take much to beat up a single disk converter at all though. Even the aftermarket are basically a polished turd. Not all are created equal but a billet cover doesn't make one bullet proof either. There are quite a few eBay billet cover converters that are often times a pure stock replacement unit in a pretty dress.


If it only slips when locked up then it is the converter slipping and not the trans itself typically.

 

[dieselstudent11]

This ^^

Might be hard to believe given the mild mods you have.

Doesn't take much to beat up a single disk converter at all though. Even the aftermarket are basically a polished turd. Not all are created equal but a billet cover doesn't make one bullet proof either. There are quite a few eBay billet cover converters that are often times a pure stock replacement unit in a pretty dress.


If it only slips when locked up then it is the converter slipping and not the trans itself typically.

Why are the pressures so erratic though? The trans guy said this was a 400 hp trans

 

[CorneliusRox]

Why are the pressures so erratic though? The trans guy said this was a 400 hp trans

I mean, a 400hp trans is about what a stock trans with the line pressure screw cranked can handle. It'll eventually wear through the TC and clutches, and run pretty hot when you're beating on it, but it'll run.

What exactly did he upgrade in it?


And I agree that a single disc, even billet, seems to be barely better than stock.

 

[dieselstudent11]

I mean, a 400hp trans is about what a stock trans with the line pressure screw cranked can handle. It'll eventually wear through the TC and clutches, and run pretty hot when you're beating on it, but it'll run.

What exactly did he upgrade in it?


And I agree that a single disc, even billet, seems to be barely better than stock.

Ok, now I am really kicking myself for not ponying up the money for a full build. I don't know exactly what he did to the transmission. I believe its close to a stock rebuild with valve body work and a shiny "billet" stock torque converter. I found some clutch and steel grains in the pan when I dropped it. Do you guys think if I put my fuel plate back in this transmission will last? Can you see the pic I put in with the oil pan? If you look close you can see the black grains on the bottom.

 

[Keysto]

IMO I would be pulling it back out and having it checked or built properly to suite your needs. Are you sure your builder knows what he's doing as well? All rebuilds aren't the same, and as said above you could be blowing through the converter and thats the debris you found.

 

[zfaylor]

Ok, now I am really kicking myself for not ponying up the money for a full build. I don't know exactly what he did to the transmission. I believe its close to a stock rebuild with valve body work and a shiny "billet" stock torque converter. I found some clutch and steel grains in the pan when I dropped it. Do you guys think if I put my fuel plate back in this transmission will last? Can you see the pic I put in with the oil pan? If you look close you can see the black grains on the bottom.

It MAY last but for how long? Who knows. Might last another 100k easy miles, might slip its life away from here on out. Your other option is to keep your foot out of it entirely until you can afford a rebuild. Talk to phil at DPC for a decent single disk that can handle a stockish truck.

If you really need to just limp it along then I would probably put it back to stock and toss some hygaurd fluid in it to hope and get by.

 

[CorneliusRox]

It MAY last but for how long? Who knows. Might last another 100k easy miles, might slip its life away from here on out. Your other option is to keep your foot out of it entirely until you can afford a rebuild. Talk to phil at DPC for a decent single disk that can handle a stockish truck.

If you really need to just limp it along then I would probably put it back to stock and toss some hygaurd fluid in it to hope and get by.

I use hytran (Case IH) and love it (lowers stall about 150rpm), but that along with a TransGo kit with very small lock up holes drilled and I bet she'd be happy until 450rwhp-ish without a billet input or triple disc TC. All DIY stuff.