47re rebuild questions???

justacummins

justacummins

Certified Ford Diesel Tec
Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
443
Hey guys i'm gonna rebuild my trans here soon and have a few questions, I have a 2002 24v with the auto trans this is the 47re correct??, and my other questions are what all needs replaced?, I was planning on doing a stock rebuild kit, My question is what else needs to be replaced?? It will be my first trans rebuild with the help of my college professor, Im just trying to get a list of parts that I will need, I really dont beat on my truck and I just needs somethin to get me by till I get out in the field and make some cash lol. Any info advice would be great thanks guys.
 
O man, you are gonna have fun. I have wanted to build the trans in my truck for so long and now im thinkin bout just trading it off. When I was serious bout it this is what I found.
PATC 46RE 47RE 48RE Transmissions, Performance Transmission A518, 518

I dont think it took you down to the direct spot I wanted it to but your looking for the #K48RZ package, its not for from the top.

The kit has everything you need. Fluid feed valve which allows your fluid to circulate in park, billet imput, you can add a billet intermediate and output if you look further down. New bands, more clutches per clutch pack, carbon fiber bands, 48RE pnanatary gears, sun gear sun shell, and a whole lot more. Jsut read the description. I ordered a rebuild kit form them for my car (4L60E) which I did myself and I love it. Only thing I recomend is when installing the Fairbanks Transaction kit (shift kit) is not to drill out the converter lock up hole in the flex plate to the max. I talked to a guy at the place bout it and he has an 01 he did with this exact kit, said he had to buy a new plate cause it was just too much.... Let me know if you have any other questions man. More than happy to help out.
 
LOL, PATC does an awesome job in making sure they come up in every google search known to man. I've bought a few things from them, but IMHO they are overpriced and just marketing common items as their own developments.

Get a stock rebuild kit. They typically come with frictions, steels, intermediate band, paper and rubber kit, sealing rings, etc.

I'd replace the pump bushing.

Depending on how many miles are on the trans I'd consider putting thrust washers in it depending on what they look like when you pull them out.

I'd plan for an OD planet replacement.

Consider putting a higher ratio intermediate apply lever and a reinforced band strut in it.

I'd also put a transgo valve body kit in the valve body. It will also come with the new manual valve previously mentioned, so there is no reason to buy two.

Run decent oil in it.

With that setup, a stock input shaft will be your weak point IMHO.

Are you going to rebuild your converter too?
 
Well I took it as he is being smart and building his trans before it really goes. So why wouldn't he go bigger and better than what you mentioned? Im a fan of doing something once and doing it right. If he starts pumping out more power that setup is not going to hold up at all. That kit I found I wouldn't be afraid to push 1000 lbs/tq out of it.

I had nothing but good customer service from PATC. Their prices are slightly higher but if your worried about money then why are you modding a diesel in the first place?
 
Red Sleeper said:
Well I took it as he is being smart and building his trans before it really goes. So why wouldn't he go bigger and better than what you mentioned? Im a fan of doing something once and doing it right. If he starts pumping out more power that setup is not going to hold up at all. That kit I found I wouldn't be afraid to push 1000 lbs/tq out of it.
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What difference does it make if he is building it before it is broken or not? The parts used are all the same, with the exception of some hard parts if it is really broken.

You can put more power through a basically stock trans than you think. I have had no problems sending 1000 ft/lbs of torque through a tranny with a similar setup.

Red Sleeper said:
I had nothing but good customer service from PATC. Their prices are slightly higher but if your worried about money then why are you modding a diesel in the first place?
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I didn't say PATC was bad, just amusing how they market other people's products as their own, and how it seems like every post about someone trying to build their first transmission finds them and posts a link to them.

Why would you pay higher prices for the exact same parts and be satisfied with that? You must have way more money to waste than I do, and it has nothing to do with being worried about money spent.
 
I posted up that link because it adresses a lot of the weak spots in the transmission in one kit. If he were to do your basic build, (cltches, steels, o-rings, bushings, shift kit and converter) you think it would hold up to 1000 lbs/tq for 100k or more?

I guess you have a better place than I do to buy trans parts at a much cheaer price that I done know about. And no I dont have money to waste, im a college student with two vehicles and two jobs. Take pride in what I have and work for what I got.
 
Red Sleeper said:
I posted up that link because it adresses a lot of the weak spots in the transmission in one kit. If he were to do your basic build, (cltches, steels, o-rings, bushings, shift kit and converter) you think it would hold up to 1000 lbs/tq for 100k or more?
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3 years and over 60k hard miles so far with no issues. This is with a trans case that has a loose sprag race in it too (the PO of this trans did a lot of neutral drops).

I am concerned about the stock input shaft breaking, but not concerned enough about it that I have pulled the trans and put a billet shaft in it yet. I'll do that when it breaks. Depending on what the forward and direct clutches look like at that point, maybe freshen it up a bit at that time too.

Proper line pressure and good oil go a long way towards making the trannys live IMHO.

Red Sleeper said:
I guess you have a better place than I do to buy trans parts at a much cheaer price that I done know about. And no I dont have money to waste, im a college student with two vehicles and two jobs. Take pride in what I have and work for what I got.
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Find a transmission parts distributor in your area. That is where the local trans shops get their parts from. Most, if not all of them also deal with the performance stuff too. Several of my friends and I do this and have never been turned away from them when we call looking for parts.

If you don't want to go that route, A&A transmission or bulkpart are also decent parts sources. I'm sure there are others too.

Home - A&A Transmissions

http://www.bulkpart.com
 
its slippin a little now and, I was planning on just doing a stock rebuild kit but the question is can i use the stock valve body thats in it now or do i have to replace it, i was planning on using a reman stock converter also,just for now. When I finish school in 16 months,I'm planning on putting a fully built trans from georend in it. but right now money is really tight lol
 
As I mentioned before, put a valve body kit in your valve body. With few exceptions, all Goerend or anybody else does to their valve bodies is modify the OE parts to make them work like they want them to.

Does your instructor have any experience with converters? You could just rebuild/modify what you already have instead of getting another stock replacement...
 
To be honest im not sure, i was hoping to to buy a reman oem torque converter and a stock rebuild kit with a stock vb, just to get me buy for now!!. any ideas on much this will run me? How would you rebuild/modify a torque converter?
 
The same way custom converter shops do it. Everybody starts with stock cores from some application. The diesel torqueflite guys all seem to start with diesel or v10 cores and work the pump and stator to meet the customer's requests.
 
O ok probably not my school doesnt have the tools to do all that, so i'm probably just gonna go with a stock rebuild kit oem converter and oem vb for now
 
i would put a sonax vb kit in it with kevlar clutches i would look around for a better tq converter.
 
Goerend's single disc is $600-$650 if I remember correctly. Not sure how much a stock OEM converter is going to run you, but you might wanna check that out. No point in buying another valve body, just do like they said and put a kit in it. Should be a big improvement over what you have...
 
Yea but if he is just doing a bsic rebuild then an oem will be fine. Buying a new single lock is not worth it if he will just be replacing it in a year or two.
 
Red Sleeper said:
Yea but if he is just doing a bsic rebuild then an oem will be fine. Buying a new single lock is not worth it if he will just be replacing it in a year or two.
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Agreed...but depending on how crazy he is going to go in 16 months a single disc may hold up just fine. I will rephrase my statement..."if you're going to drop 3-400 on an OEM converter then I would consider taking a look at Goerend's single disc for a little more money. It will provide better performance than an OEM, and depending on how much power you plan on running in the future, it may be all you need."
 
Dudge said:
depending on how much power you plan on running in the future, it may be all you need."
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True, I know a guy with just a single disc that runs I think low 13's or high 12's im not too sure. But its a 2wd CR and he has had that setup for a couple years now and not a lick of problems.
 
so question??? ,I can run the same vb i have now?? or does that gotta be replaced when doing the rebuild?
 
You can run the same one, just put new governor pressure solenoid and sensor. There are a million ways to make it better, stock is fine if thats all you can afford right now.
 
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