6.0 fuel system questions

D

dirtycj5

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Sep 18, 2007
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im working on my sisters excursion and its pissing diesel out of all fuel lines from all the flex line joints.
is there a way that i could get rid of the stock filter and run a spin on type filter after the pump on the frame?
whats the stock filter 10 micron???
how much psi does the stock lift pump put out?
how big of a line sould i run from the filter to injection pump 3/8 1/2 in?
the truck is bone stock no chip or any thing so im not doing this for performance at all just tryng to make it more simple and less cluttered
thanks for any info:bang
 
Which flex joints? The ones that go from the pump to the corner of the engine block?
 
Send a pm to TANK250. THere's a fuel line set-up you can buy that looks pretty nice but I can't remember the name of the company. He can get you hooked up with a better price from them anyway.
 
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the fittings fuel supply and return an-6??? or is it smaller
and does any one know what the part # for the copper washers for the banjo bolts that go in to the heads?
also how much psi does the lift pump put out?
thanks!!:Cheer:
 
So, now you are looking to change out all of your lines? I though you were just trying to fix a leak.
 
the lines are cracked from the lift pump to filter so im planing on useing rubber hose. its also leaking form the banjo bolt on the pass side head. really funny for a truck that has only 59000 miles to have all these problems???
 
its cracked about 2in after the the flex hose from the frame on the supply and is cracked right after the filter on the return where it has like a 90* after the filter going back down the side of the engine
 
Tighten the banjo bolt at the head. Cut the line down below and put in a compression fitting. Done.
 
i will tighten the banjo bolt. will compression fitting will hold the psi? if its that low could i just use rubber fuel line and re route away from all the heat from the engine and hose clamp it to the cut hard line??? i got some 1/2 and 3/8 parker bio hose
 
I use a compression fitting on quite a few things that are 60 psi and higher. Depending on where you go, many are rated for around 100 psi.
 
Ok. So, take the flexible line off of the fuel pump. There is a hard line coming out of the pump that the flexible line connects to. Use a compression fitting that is a -6an and connect it to the pump. Run a steel braided line (preferable Teflon lined), up to the housing and bypass the entire mess.

As far as the banjo washers are concerned, go to your local dealer and get news ones if tightening them won't fix it.

If you need help finding parts, pm me.
 
Bare with me here, I'm kind of a fuel system newbie with these trucks...

How hard would it be to connect to the right injector fuel runner at the back of the head, elbow over and run to a tee at the left runner, and from there connect to the fuel return line (plugging the fuel return port on the fuel filter housing)?

I presume this is what a regulated return system (RRS) does, and I also presume such a home-made RRS would need a pressure regulator between the connection to the left head fuel runner and the return line so the system can maintain pressure. Would a valve like this be available anywhere?

Any holes in my thoughts? Any needed parts that I missed? Any reason why that wouldn't work? Any reasons why it's a bad idea?
 
There is a lot of heat coming off the y-pipes located close to the rear of the heads. It is not advisable to use a flexible hose, as most if not all are not rated for the heat.

There are a few companies out there that offer stainless steel lines that take the fuel from the back of the heads to the intake manifold. From there, a crossover line can be connecting to connect the two fuel rails.

Plugging the return lines will require the use of an external regulator or a regulated fuel pump. Depends on what you use.

Basically what you are talking about is a regulated return system and they work very well.

There is a lot more info here http://www.trustedperformance.com/stageII.html
 
WOW! There's quite a cost difference between the Stage II kit and the Crossover Line kit. (~$750!)

Why couldn't a guy buy the crossover line kit, install a tee at the point where the two lines come together, and then run a line with a regulator from that tee to the fuel return line?
 
I have the Stage II (and III) on my truck. The difference between the Stage II and a crossover line are the number of lines (3 lines with 6 fittings), fittings (3 at the regulator and 1 at the return line), the regulator mount and the regulator. But don’t forget that the Stage II kit includes the Stage I (188.09) and the crossover lines don’t.

So the difference is a little less than $500 for what is named above. Doesn't seem to bad to me.
 
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