6.0 no start hot

1

1badharley

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Mar 16, 2009
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so i have this 05 f250 6.0. cold starts great. hot will not start for about 30 min. we have replaced the hp oil pump and fitting, branch tube, both oil rails, feed tubes, fittings and injectors, ipr valve and icp and connector. eng still will not start hot. any ideas ford guys..........
 
I was gonna say injectors but you already changed those.
 
has a new ficm but i am going to try another one. my thought was that it was getting hot and keeping the injectors open when hot bleeding off oil pressure. the oil pressure is only getting to 320 psi when hot. weird....
 
1badharley said:
has a new ficm but i am going to try another one. my thought was that it was getting hot and keeping the injectors open when hot bleeding off oil pressure. the oil pressure is only getting to 320 psi when hot. weird....
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Have you checked your EGR Valve? also check the o-ring on your HPOP, make sure it ain't leaking either.

Also check your MAT sensor as well. you could have a bad PCM.
 
5150ram said:
Had one do this and the low pressure oil pump was trashed.
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That's what I was gonna say.

Had a friend with an 05 KR that wouldn't start hot but after around half an hour it would crank over. Dealer replaced the Low Pressure Oil Pump and it was fine after that.
 
we just put a new engine in. has the egr delete kit. im going to ck the other sensors, oil temp, air temp, etc. maybe im missing something. something trivial im betting.
 
Not very common, but there could be a problem with the oil pump pickup. Sometimes bad o-ring, sometimes a crack that opens up when hot.
 
ok i love these what year 05 i would be looking at the dummy plugs on the top of the oil rails. on the front where the stand pipe would have been if the oil rail was on the other side of the engine. it will be the orings on the bottom of the plugs. tell me what you find
 
the original poster is my partner and he is a ford tech of 15 years..just a little backstory.
 
what are the icp and ipr pids doing when it is a no start. also just checking bases here but you still have a rpm signal when cranking. also make sure you have sync and ficmsync. if you dont have a rpm signal the pcm will not command the ipr duty cycle more than 14.4% and it will not build icp.
 
we started out with an 05 truck. standard mods. we put studs, head gaskets, our egr delete and sent him down the road. the next weekend he came back and had serious blowby. missing on 2 cylinders and would not start hot. compression test found 7,8 only had 250 psi on it. tore the eng apart and found that the ring on those cylinders were like razor blades and the cylinders were damaged. replaced the eng. all new everything, hp oil pump, branch tube, feed tubes, oil rails, all 8 injectors, ipr valve, icp sensor and connector. we did however reuse his front cover and oil cooler assy. at this point when it wont start hot the icp gets to 320 and the ipr is commanded to 84%. we unpluged all the sensors on the eng that would not make the eng not start, ie..map, maf, oil temp, coolant temp, ebp, icp, etc. eng still would not start. after sitting 10 min eng starts normally. low pressure oil is normal when running 25 psi ok. we also replaced the pcm and ficm with anyother truck that has no problem. made no difference on this truck. at this point we are going to replace the ft cover and lp pump. any other ideas. oh and sync and ficm sync are both reading yes and the rpm is at 160.....this truck is haunting me. lol. laughing at me.....
 
i would really consider looking at the dummy plugs on the oil rails. just rip off the valvecovers and pull them. only one is bad but they dont replace them when rebuilding. this is where i have seen 99% of it starts ok cold but not hot problems that are related to icp

And just remember ALL NEW does not mean good. we have all put parts on and they have been duds

do replacement engines come with the new style stc bracket.
 
1badharley said:
we started out with an 05 truck. standard mods. we put studs, head gaskets, our egr delete and sent him down the road. the next weekend he came back and had serious blowby. missing on 2 cylinders and would not start hot. compression test found 7,8 only had 250 psi on it. tore the eng apart and found that the ring on those cylinders were like razor blades and the cylinders were damaged. replaced the eng. all new everything, hp oil pump, branch tube, feed tubes, oil rails, all 8 injectors, ipr valve, icp sensor and connector. we did however reuse his front cover and oil cooler assy. at this point when it wont start hot the icp gets to 320 and the ipr is commanded to 84%. we unpluged all the sensors on the eng that would not make the eng not start, ie..map, maf, oil temp, coolant temp, ebp, icp, etc. eng still would not start. after sitting 10 min eng starts normally. low pressure oil is normal when running 25 psi ok. we also replaced the pcm and ficm with anyother truck that has no problem. made no difference on this truck. at this point we are going to replace the ft cover and lp pump. any other ideas. oh and sync and ficm sync are both reading yes and the rpm is at 160.....this truck is haunting me. lol. laughing at me.....
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Have you checked into replacing the valve covers.
 
i have considered hooking my boat to it and accidentally letting it roll down the boat ramp and crying OH MY GOD WHAT HAVE I DONE....we are going to get a 5000 psi hose and some nitrogen and hook it up to the oil rail and make whatever is leaking leak. i only have 150 psi at the shop and it builds to 320 when hot no start. i figure 2000 psi should show me where the problem is. thanks for all the ideas.
 
you can put a air fitting into the hp pump and use your shop air. 150 psi should be enough to find the leak or it is for me at my shop. this is weird that you cant find where its leaking. usually a no start hot on a 6.0 is easy but sounds like you have gotten a different type problem here.
 
I had a bad o-ring on top of an injector cause this very issue. When the oil was cold and at a higher viscosity it would fire. Had to wait until the truck was completely cooled down to restart. I found the leak with a hydrostatic pump and a gallon of 15w40. It's a hand pump and will make about 3500 psi. I rigged it to a ford test adaptor and with some UV dye and a light I found the leak in 5 minutes. I tried using argon to leak test and I could hear the hissing but not ever pinpoint it.
 
5150ram said:
Had one do this and the low pressure oil pump was trashed.
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Yeah my POS. I also changed a few other things while I had the cab off again. But the LPOP was destroyed and yes it took about 45mins to restart.
 
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