6.7 head gaskets and higher cylinder pressures.

RonA

RonA

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Feb 26, 2008
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Have they been out long enough for people to share secrets yet, or is the MLS gasket and studs still about all there is? With all the porting and larger turbo's, I'm hoping to see a max boost in the high 60's to low 70's(assuming a 10% loss due to the porting). Timing will be max of 26 deg. but hopefully closer to 22. It just depends on how it does. If it's a secret but your shop has a method, I can send the block and or head in for the process.
Thanks.

RonA
 
You can fire ring it they are available for 6.7's. I have also used orings with the 6.7 mls with good results. With a inconnel wire .010 protrusion have used it a few times holding 1000+ hp and one setup runing twins with over 80psi of boost.

We do fire ring and oring maching here if you need anything done. Hell of a long ways to ship though.
 
When i first started this project i was told I couldn't run o-rings on the 6.7 head. Is there a special gasket? I am familiar with o-ring on the 24V, but the insert in the head gasket of the 5.9 is round and i was told the 6.7 is not.
 
The 6.7 gaskets I saw I could have sworn were round, I was told the same thing Ron, but I think folks assumed it was like the 5.9.
 
5.9L CR HG bore is kinda like an oblate ellipse (2 major axes), but the 6.7L MLS is round.
 
I appreciate the information, but dang, I wish i had known this about 6 months ago. I'm loosing my butt on shipping. Fortunately all the extra handling has polished the outside of the head and with one more trip to the Atlantic and back I'll have enough super shipper miles to get a new coffee mug. If you could pm me a price for the cutting and wire install i would appreciate it.

RonA
 
So you have used the wire with a MLS Gasket Bean? I have always wondered if this would work.
 
From what i gather, the same tool and fixture works also. I'll try getting a local shop to quote it to save 800 in shipping.

I appreciate the help.

RonA
 
Ron, with your equipment and abilities I'm sure you're capable of cutting your own head. A bridgeport, boring head, layout dye, head gasket, scribe, center scope, and the cutter of your choice adapted to your boring head and you're set.

Having a junk head to practice on is helpful if you haven't done it before.
 
9724VF350 said:
Ron, with your equipment and abilities I'm sure you're capable of cutting your own head. A bridgeport, boring head, layout dye, head gasket, scribe, center scope, and the cutter of your choice adapted to your boring head and you're set.

Having a junk head to practice on is helpful if you haven't done it before.
Click to expand...

I have done it before. But I used 3/64" end mills. I don't own a manual mill so i just use circular interpolation. 2 rough passes, 1 at half depth, 1 at z+.001. Then 1 finish pass on each side of the groove at full depth. Works well, but is really slow. Plus i had to make a fixture to find the center of the bores.
 
You know, you can use a ball mill, Ron - that'd cut your machine time in half... just remember it'll change your target protrusion vs. clamp load.
 
You could even use a drill end mill with a 60* point on it. it would probably get you the same result. Just a thought.
 
I have almost enough extra parts to build a second motor. Been thinking about another 6.7 block with the hamilton head, 5.9 crank and the extra set of pistons I have with the wide shallow bowls. Has anyone confirmed that it's ok to deck enough off the block for that combo without running into trouble(IIRC it's about 2mm coming off). I promise I won't ask any more questions this week.
 
3 mm ball mill is what we use for our fire ring set up's. Depth .0205 thou. block and head. Copper gasket. .056 Dont forget about the gas ports.. The hardest part was the initial set up and inturpolation on the CNC, now that it's programmed its a breeze.
 
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