6.7 Swapped into 5.9

Exergy, talk to Ric Newbury. Great service and a great product.

Lavon
 
Lavon would you mind sending me his contact info. It looks like exergy doesn't have contact info listed on their site anymore.
 
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Lavon, Talked to Ric this afternoon gonna order 50hp BMS injectors, give me a shout 303-912-0977 and we can finalize the details
 
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Woosley, are you saying stock to stock the 6.7 body is capable of flowing more then the 5.9? This meaning more power potential at higher rpm's. For a street truck this is not needed, but the reliability of the 6.7 seems to be far superior as well.

Yes, the 6.7 body flows more than a 5.9. That was why I made the attempt with them. Add the rail and lines, then you have a substantial amount of extra flow, since the 5.9 rail would be the choke point.
 
Yes you can, but the stock location 5.9 intake will not allow the rail to fit. That's the reason Glacier sell it all as a kit, to replace the whole intake location.
 
I just put the 6.7 rail and lines on my 06. i put glaciers intake horn and the throttle valve heater on as well. Looks awesome. I didn't do the rail and line for performance reasons, but rather looks and to do away with the hold down clamps of the 5.9 rail.
 
There's really probably not a huge performance advantage to use the 6.7 rail and lines. IMO the 6.7 intake horn is the biggest reason to swap. There's may be some advantage in the larger lines and rail volume for its influnce on pressure wave dynamics when using large/dual pumps and big injectors.
 
Hpcr is high pressure, low volume. For us mortals I'm sure 5.9 rail and lines flow plenty. But when you get into dpc or high level competition money of say you want 6.7 rail and lines.

For someone that's doing a efi swap into a sci truck, would using all 6.7 electronics complicate things more than using 06-07?
 
Hpcr is high pressure, low volume. For us mortals I'm sure 5.9 rail and lines flow plenty. But when you get into dpc or high level competition money of say you want 6.7 rail and lines.

For someone that's doing a efi swap into a sci truck, would using all 6.7 electronics complicate things more than using 06-07?

Use 06-07 5.9 electronics. The software released is much better with more tables. Also not cluttered with emission or vgt calibrations.
 
For anybody considering this swap. After everything I went through I highly recommend using the 03-04 injectors. I swapped from the stock 6.7 to bosch BMS and could not be happier with the results. I'm still fine tuning the maps with UDC but so far my mileage has come back up and I'm getting roughly 19 in mixed driving. Haven't had a had chance to actually hand calc yet.

It also dawned me today while I was at work that the issue with the 6.7 injectors with 5.9 electronics is injector trims. I'm not sure if the 6.7 sticks use trim codes but should definitely mess with fueling balance between cylinders if they do.
 
Sub'd. I run a 6.7 with 03-04 exergys and electronics. Very seriously coinsidering UDC to increase fuel mileage.
 
The reason 5.9 ecm has a cold start stumble with 6.7 injectors ( worse in freezing climates) is because the 6.7 injector takes more amps to drive properly than the 5.9 ecm offers, and the manifold heater takes the battery voltage down causing injectors to barely fire or miss till the alternator brings voltage up to 14 volts. If you pay attension the stumble happens right after start up when the manifold heater comes back on for 2-3 seconds.The 6.7 ecm has a peak and hold driver , giving more to open them then dropping down amps to hold open. The 6.7 peaks at 24amps for every event then drops to 18 . The 5.9 can only muster 18 amps to open so when voltage drops on startup injectors don't fire . Its a current problem not tuning , tuning only masks the problem making it drivable but never completely right
 
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IMG_20140407_132455_672-1.jpg
5.9 ecm
 
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Finally!! Someone explains this with actual info. Instead of "it just doesn't work."

Thanks Turboram!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Sounds like some of these guys running 6.7 injectors should disconnect the grid heaters and see if that clears up the stumble. Not necessarily a permanent fix but curious how that would change things.
 
Finally!! Someone explains this with actual info. Instead of "it just doesn't work."

Thanks Turboram!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The initiating amperage issue was mentioned before, just that people didn't post the full explanation of it.
The oscilloscope graphs sure do add clarity to it. :cool:

Mark.
 
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