98 P-pumped 24V rebuild

[whitneyj]

This is going to be a slow build as money and time allows, but I thought I'd throw this up here now to get as much feedback as possible before I do more stupid things. This is my first diesel build and first time working with a Cummins. I’ve worked on bi CAT’s and occasion Detroit’s, so I’m not entirely new to diesels, just performance wise although I’ve been lurking around here for a while now.

Here’s what I know I’ll be doing:

Non 53 block
Intake milled and ported, 140 lb springs (I think that’s what CSynder is using), cut for o-rings, valve job
I’ll be building my own side entrance intake or buying ZZ fab’s stock replacement looking one. He has guys making over 1000 hp on it so I trust it flows well enough. I wanted to keep the heater grid if possible so I may look into a dual runner running 2 heater grids to keep flow equal on both sides, but I don’t want to buy new lines or bend the ones I have up.
14 mm head studs
Hamilton 200/220 cam-That’s what Zach recommended to help with drive pressures.
Girdle (If money allows or I find a good deal)

I hated how long it took the secondary to spool, so I picked up an HE341 and heavily ported it to match the ATS manifold and smoothed everything out in the exhaust side by the wheel. I opened the waste gate up to around 1 1/8” just to see what I could do with the stock wastegate before I throw a 50mm external gate on it. I’ll be using the HT3B that came with the truck.
Complete rebuild to include any machining, balance rotating assembly to 5K, ect.

I’ll be using the injectors and the pump that came with the truck. I have no idea what they are yet, but they put enough fuel in to smoke heavily at WOT running roughly 80psi of boost. (gauge stops at 60 and I could peg it the second the turbos started to spool and peg a 1600* pyro)

Goals for the truck:
No less than a reliable 650 hp, I’m looking for 800 hp though. At WOT I don’t ever want to see more than 1400* on the pyro and I don’t want to ever have to worry about blowing a headgasket again or tearing it apart before 250K miles. The truck is used for daily driving and towing. I’d like to try my hand at pulling once in a while just to see what it can do, but on real plans for any competition.

Ok, so here's the truck: 98 crewcab conversion done by Bayer's Auto in MN, that's what the sticker says. There's a little bit of rust and the guy that did the cab corners didn't prep the metal well or something because they're peeling off.

 

[jlbayes]

o-ring the head.

 

[whitneyj]

Last night I worked on pulling the head off the donor motor to check out what I've got going on with it. Everything looked good with the cylinders, only 2 had slight scuffs in the crossmarks, just barely able to catch a finger nail on it and I didn't see any cracks in the head.

I ported the head on the exhaust side since I had it off anyhow, first time attemping it. I didn't remove to much material and made sure to keep everything as smooth as possibly and not just hog out as much metal as the bit would dig into. It took me about 4 hours to get that far.








Tonight is cleaning up the shop and maybe going over the head once more and getting the donor block on the engine stand to start stripping it down.

 

[whitneyj]

o-ring the head.

I am. The head CSynder is building me will be cut for it, and the head I'm pulling off the donor motor to get the truck back on the road will be getting decked and cut for o-rings.

 

[pin_it]

ttt

 

[whitneyj]

This build took an entirely different direction. I haven't actually touched the truck in a couple months due to other vehicle build obligations.

New engine:
Intake milled with a side entrance built by me
Port/polish
14mm head studs
Fire rings cut in block and head
Hamilton 188/220 cam
S364/S480
And there's a pile of other engine internals I'm undecided on.

I'm looking for 850 hp with the option of the engine handling 1000+. I've been talking on and off with CSynder but as soon as I get a bunch of time he and I will be setting a build plan and kicking this thing off.