A/C problems please help im sweating my baxxs off

white99

white99

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Sep 26, 2008
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bought the truck back in the fall never thought to mess with ac till a little while back. ,, turned ac on and blew hot air. buddy hooked it up to his system n recharged it. off i went it blew ice cold.. for a week or two. then started blowing warm again ... went n bought ref cans n topped it off. was ice cold. next day warm again. bought dye n topped it off ran it for a day and checked for leaks.. didnt see any florecent except around the high side where it got filled. this whole time the clutch fan would kick on n off. no last week it wont kick on at all. ref was full n it wouldnt kick on. jumped both sensors ..nothing SWITCHED RELAY FROM HORN TO AC ..checked horn ..still worked. still no clutch fan action. next day go to use my horn and it doesnt work. BOUGHT NEW RELAYS. still no horn and no ac compressor. ANY ADVICE OTHER THEN SELL IT I WILL TAKE haha. thanks ahead of time.-scott truck is in sig 96 5 speed
 
I have a 95 that theinside switch is not working. I pulled the relay and used some spade connectors in place of the relay and put a toggel switch inside to turn the compressor on. You can just jump the relay and force it on.
 
my concern is the horn doesnt work anymore since i switchthe relays n put new ones in and it still doesnt work along with the ac compresor kicking on. any more info?
 
start checking for a bad ground on your dash. grounds are the biggest pain in the arse. as for the ac not staying cold, go get dye put in or like i just did, replace the whole schrader valve where you fill up the AC systeml. Its a $7 part from napa
 
also change the orings at the condensor in the front .. your going to need an a/c machine and pull a vacuum and see if the vacuum stays.. if theres no visable leaks under the hood area you may have to pull the dash and change the evap core... as far as the relys you changed look at the area they push in to ,and make sure the spad terminal has not pushed down and not making a connection in the fuse box
 
It is probably your mixing valve.It controls the amount of hot water that goes to your heater core.Not sure on a 1999 where it is located but it will be located inside the cab. Under the dash near the passenger side of the hump. Just did this on a 01 and it fixed it up nicey nice. Dont really have an answer for the horn but check the fuse and the ground. Btw the mixing valve... its a a mother fer the whole dash has gotta come out.:kick:
 
tornado112 said:
It is probably your mixing valve.It controls the amount of hot water that goes to your heater core.Not sure on a 1999 where it is located but it will be located inside the cab. Under the dash near the passenger side of the hump. Just did this on a 01 and it fixed it up nicey nice. Dont really have an answer for the horn but check the fuse and the ground. Btw the mixing valve... its a a mother fer the whole dash has gotta come out.:kick:
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:what:
 
And another thing you need to check is power to the clutch. Maybe a bad coil. You will be very lucky also if the evap is not leaking.
 
Drasko said:
start checking for a bad ground on your dash. grounds are the biggest pain in the arse. as for the ac not staying cold, go get dye put in or like i just did, replace the whole schrader valve where you fill up the AC systeml. Its a $7 part from napa
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ill be sure to get a new valve. n o rings ,im also going to check the screen? i was told there is one in the line where the condensor connects to the lines?

impmouse said:
also change the orings at the condensor in the front .. your going to need an a/c machine and pull a vacuum and see if the vacuum stays.. if theres no visable leaks under the hood area you may have to pull the dash and change the evap core... as far as the relys you changed look at the area they push in to ,and make sure the spad terminal has not pushed down and not making a connection in the fuse box
Click to expand...

im going to my buddys shop in the am since hes the only one with a machine that i know of n cant really afford to pay shop rates for them to just say oh well you need a whole new ac system wheres my 200 for telling you what was bad

tornado112 said:
It is probably your mixing valve.It controls the amount of hot water that goes to your heater core.Not sure on a 1999 where it is located but it will be located inside the cab. Under the dash near the passenger side of the hump. Just did this on a 01 and it fixed it up nicey nice. Dont really have an answer for the horn but check the fuse and the ground. Btw the mixing valve... its a a mother fer the whole dash has gotta come out.:kick:
Click to expand...

i checked the relay under the hood for the horn and cant find where the horn FUSE is? i looked on hte guide n it said nothing about horn that i can see. as for the dash coming out.. if thats the case itll wait till i have a few days off for that.

golfersmith said:
And another thing you need to check is power to the clutch. Maybe a bad coil. You will be very lucky also if the evap is not leaking.
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im hoping hte evap isnt leaking ...would it be a bad idea to just run power fro mthe battery straight to the ac compressor n see if that itself is bad?

im just really stumped as to why the horn would stop working once i switched relays with the ac compressor.. feel like im moving backwards instead of forward.

thanks to all that have responded with ideas keep em coming n ill be posting what happens.-scott
 
yes, on the condensor, there is a little screen that likes to freeze up. also, to check if the compressor works, pull the plug off of the black canister on the passenger firewall and put a piece of bailing wire in the plug to connect the circuit(i do this when i fill my ac system also) as this will tell you if the compressor is working because it should make it kick on.
 
if u pull the relay out you can jump the compressor, just use a wire with a couple of straight blade connectors.
 
jumping the plug on the evaporater will do the same thing plus its on the same side of the motor as the compressor so you can see it kick on and off. any updates?
 
For what it is worth i had dye put in and no sign of a leak. I pulled the dash and the evap had a small hole in the lower part.

I am sure you know this but i will say it anyway. (yours may be different) i used a 13mm on both sides if my dash, didnt remove all the way. 10mm to lower steering wheel,10mm under abs (middle lower dash) then the windshield bolts. I used a strap to hold the dash it didnt have to come out.
 
figured the prob out a few weeks ago..figured id update... used the y dye. no no signs of leaks , put a can of stop leak in and some 134 with oil and sealer. then leaked down a little n put another can of 134 with oil n seemed to be working good for the past few weeks till friday when the motor went. just wherever i went i kept the ac on so everything was circulating
 
im having the same problem with my truck (clutch wont engage) gonna watch this one
 
white99 said:
figured the prob out a few weeks ago..figured id update... used the y dye. no no signs of leaks , put a can of stop leak in and some 134 with oil and sealer. then leaked down a little n put another can of 134 with oil n seemed to be working good for the past few weeks till friday when the motor went. just wherever i went i kept the ac on so everything was circulating
Click to expand...

Now you just contaminated your whole A/C system with that garbage stop leak. If that truck gets hooked to an A/C machine I hope they have a filter on it to catch contaminants. That stop leak crap is nothing but trouble for the system and A/C machines.
 
Dusterb318 said:
Now you just contaminated your whole A/C system with that garbage stop leak. If that truck gets hooked to an A/C machine I hope they have a filter on it to catch contaminants. That stop leak crap is nothing but trouble for the system and A/C machines.
Click to expand...

This.
 
The R134a-sealer combo does nothing to solve leaking systems. Really plays havoc on our ac service equipment though.
 
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