AFC foot cutting with Mack plug, and Governor screw

Big T

diesel bleeder
Joined
Aug 24, 2008
Messages
23
I've been researching all day and have found some questions I can't find answers for. I modded My 94 160 HP pump off the truck about a year ago (I wasn't smart enough that day to measure and indicate, then write down all my travels). I run a 100 plate forward, 191's, the Mack plug, .090" cut off the front of the barrel, flipped washers, ACE washer thinner replacement, Afc housing forward set with no coil bind on the screw. I was reading how a lot of guys are cutting the tapper off the front of the foot, or cutting it back. I understand this mod without a Mack plug, but would I have anything to gain by removing the Governor screw or cutting the face of my foot? I have increased the rack travel with the plug, so is the length of the foot even with a cut barrel causing a small limiting point on top fueling. Will the screw removal aid me since I run a 100 plate? Is there a setup I can do with the Governor screw to work even better with the 100 plate? I have never touched the governor screw yet, and yes I know not to touch the rack screw. This is a street and towing truck, I just want it perfect.
 
I'm not sure forrest but I don't think so but I could be wrong. I've had the afc arm in the up, middle, and down positions and noticed the quickest spool and best part throttle driving with it in the farthest up position. I run the adjustment screw/stud out of all the pumps i've had on my truck. I'd imagine that's a function of your fueling, turbo, and timing though. My turbo spool pretty quick so a charger that takes a bit longer to light may not show the same results i'm guessing.
 
Grinding the face of the AFC lever will not help you, I take the governor adjustment screw out.

Where is this governor adjustment screw exactly? Pic somewhere with an arrow pointing to this specific screw?
 
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