I had it almost happen, threads galled up real bad and I had to get them replaced. ARP gave me some of their "new" formulated lube and that has seemed to solve the issue. Since the new studs and lube the retorques have been flawless.
Joe
I like to thicken the mixture on the moly lube by squirting some arp lube on a paper plate and mixing about a tbsp of moly powder with it. Jeremy told me you'd screw it up eventually.
I'll put my asbestos garments on here and ask why retorque ARP 625 studs. I was told by ARP to cycle the studs (apply and release torque 3 times back to back) and then leave them alone. What source says to do it differently?
Thank you Ron but with time being an issue, I'm going to give it hell again Friday with standard ARP moly lube and some new hardwareI have moly powder here at the shop. If you need some let me know and I'll ship it up.
:hehe:
Sorry I didn't laugh earlier. I had no idea what AstroGlide or a Ruffie was. I had to go to google and come back.(yep, I'm old)
because the headgasket settels more after heat cycles, set your valves, and go back and they will be tighter, it's just the gasket settling more, it will eventually stop settling, but this is the main reason why everyone does retorques.
I think the arp moly lube and a tbsp of moly powder beats the hell out of THAT OTHER SHOP's procedure of Astro Glide and a Ruffie, nothing like going in for a head gasket job and walking out with a sore ass and chapped lips :hehe:
At least you saved 10%.:hehe:
I don't know if he saved 10%, it is my motor in Riles rig and I have been accused of acting like Mr. 10%.
I've never heard of torquing them and then releaseing them and then retorquing them. Why would you do that and what's the benefits?