ARP head stud torque procedure

Follow factory ford procedure with ARP's torque specs though.

There is a HUGE thread going on PSnation about this right now, some guys are actually following the ford spec to a "t" now by using the angle method instead of torque numbers and it seems to help with gasket issues... check it out if you get a chance, TONS of good info on it.
 
use fords torquing sequence. but do it in steps. I did mine in 4 steps.
1 80ft lbs
2 150ft lbs
3 200ft lbs
4 245ft lbs
 
This is the procedure I'm going to follow on my buddies truck...

60 ft lbs then 80ft lbs the 90 deg then another 90 deg.

Stock is accually another 90deg on top of that but with studs that do not stretch it is way too much. With the 90's they will come up with an average of around 250lbs, but some of them may get poppy when turning them and will cause the tqu to skyrocket, those are the ones that will kill your head gaskets when just goin by tq only cause while some may be 250 others are maby only 200. Using angle they will have the same down pressure no matter what the tqu is.

So far I only have about 1 tank of fuel through it with some pretty hard runs and with the puke tank almost filled all the way up and has not puked one single drop.


This was copied from BEAN from psnation (beans performance...)

He did this same method on a user's truck over there who is running 560-580rwhp and has had 4 sets of headgaskets go bad, all with studs and new gaskest and machining the heads. He is trying this method and it is holding up so far.:clap:
 
strokin6L said:
use fords torquing sequence. but do it in steps. I did mine in 4 steps.
1 80ft lbs
2 150ft lbs
3 200ft lbs
4 245ft lbs
Click to expand...

Where did you get this? Ford doesn't even use tq #'s last I knew, they use the angles. Bean used the angles and tried getting a tq # off of it that way kind of reverse engineering it. Some were nearing 300ft-lbs, but read the info in my last post and you'll see why he did this.
 
mdub707 said:
Where did you get this? Ford doesn't even use tq #'s last I knew, they use the angles. Bean used the angles and tried getting a tq # off of it that way kind of reverse engineering it. Some were nearing 300ft-lbs, but read the info in my last post and you'll see why he did this.
Click to expand...

I know ford doesn't use torque #'s. I said torque sequence not torque procedure. By sequence i mean what order the bolts/studs get torqued. I have fords service manual for the tear down and rebuild of the whole engine with all the torque specs and procedures. Tadd at elite diesel told me that this is the method they use. And not only that, alot of people are doing it this way by using fords torqueing sequence and using four steps to get to the 245ft lb spec. If you read the directions to the ARP studs it doesn't even tell you to use ford's torquing specs by doing the degree torque. This is first time i've ever heard anyone doing it this way and i'm sure ARP doesn't even recommend doing it that way. I've had my studs in for almost 4 years now and have had ZERO issues and i've truck pulled and drag raced.
 
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strokin6L said:
I know ford doesn't use torque #'s. I said torque sequence not torque procedure. By sequence i mean what order the bolts/studs get torqued. I have fords service manual for the tear down and rebuild of the whole engine with all the torque specs and procedures. Tadd at elite diesel told me that this is the method they use. And not only that, alot of people are doing it this way by using fords torqueing sequence and using four steps to get to the 245ft lb spec. If you read the directions to the ARP studs it doesn't even tell you to use ford's torquing specs by doing the degree torque. This is first time i've ever heard anyone doing it this way and i'm sure ARP doesn't even recommend doing it that way. I've had my studs in for almost 4 years now and have had ZERO issues and i've truck pulled and drag raced.
Click to expand...

I have ARP's in mine and I know the gaskets are bad again, and I have nothing more than a tuner. I have so much pressure building up in my cooling system that if I try to unscrew the coolant cap after driving it around, it will blow off the bottle and sounds like a shotgun.

This method is just starting to be used buy guys who are having MULTIPLE blown gaskets and cant seem to keep the heads flat.

I'm sure ARP doesn't recommend this, its just something that some guys are trying out that have had more than one occurrence of gaskets going with studs in place already and heads machined flat and blocks machine flat. What would you do if you had your block machined, heads machined and had studs in and STILL blew gaskets?

This isn't EXACTLY the ford method, as the very last step is left out. The last step is where the stock TTY bolts are stretched ever so slightly, and the ARP's do not need that. Read through some of the info and let me know what you think, I'm open to opinions. After having mine done and still having bad gaskets, I'm ready to try something else is all. Luckily for my buddy it's on his truck, not mine.

Where about were you located again? How far are you from esta speedway? ESTA Safety Park Dragstrip Homepage ?

Also were trying to get an upstate club get together planned very soon, any interest?
 
Hey if this method works, that's all that matters. I wonder what's causeing the coolant system to pressurize like this and make the gaskets blow then. How are the egr cooler and oil cooler on the truck? maybe there is a blockage in the coolant system that makes it get pressurized.

I live in western NY. about 30 miles south of buffalo
 
strokin6L said:
Hey if this method works, that's all that matters. I wonder what's causeing the coolant system to pressurize like this and make the gaskets blow then. How are the egr cooler and oil cooler on the truck? maybe there is a blockage in the coolant system that makes it get pressurized.

I live in western NY. about 30 miles south of buffalo
Click to expand...

I'm waiting to do an EGR delete and a new oil cooler before I worry too much more about it.

The thought behind the gaskets blowing in the link I posted was since there is only 4 studs/bolts holding for each cylinder its putting uneven pressure across the head. In almost all cases the gaskets were blowing between the studs, which makes sense. It's all there in the link.

You're wayyy out there! haha. Know anyone looking for a stack kit for a 6.0? MBRP?
 
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