ARP stud torque sequence?

[9 LIVES]

I just put an o-ringed head with , ti-retainers,keepers, 60lb. springs & a ATS manifold on along with ARP head studs on my 98 12 valve.

I have lost the directions on when im suposed to re torque the head and to what ft. pounds? Do you pull them all loose then torque them? Or do you pull loose and then tighten one by one?

Im just in one of those anal moods tonight....are the mods above going to make the valves any louder? They seem to make a bit more racket but not really any ticking.

 

[jktcummins]

Well ARP recommends somewhere around 95lbs. Thats at like 75% of their strength. When i put my head on i was told to torqure them to 135 which was at like 90% of their strenght. So i just went to 125 and left it. You need to start at the center studs and go in a clock wise direction and tighten them. Start with 35lbs then go to 60lbs twice then go to 90lbs and then 120lbs. Get the engine to normal temp and retorque them again to somewhere around 120lbs. This is what i did but i am not sure on the lbs on the first few times.

 

[dodge359]

ARP told me to bring them down in three stages to 125 then go back and back each one off half a turn and bring it back down to 125 (One at a time). Repeat the loosen half a turn and pull back down to 125 for three heat cycles. I did mine a few more times and pulled them down to 135 after I had marked the nuts and had no difference when I retorqued to 125. Its a pain in the *ss but it beats a blown gasket, again. The worst ones are where the injector lines cross the head and where the return line crosses.

 

[joefarmer]

Start in the center and spiral out. Do one at a time. Pull the nut & washer, put fresh moly lube on them and tighten to 77 ft/lbs. Then 96, then 122ft/lbs.

 

[Lucky Jeff]

I did them 1 at a time and only took the nut off and put some new lube on it and torqued it back down to 125.. I still haven't gone back over it and re-torqued it a third time. It's kind of a pain in the ass. And I have only hit 35 psi anyways.