ARP studs little help DIY

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brianjbeach85

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Mar 10, 2011
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Going to be doing my own Head studs.. i got a guy that will swap me the rockers that are machined like the ARP studs require. I am using a hoist to lift the head off once all bolts are out.. anything i need to know that will make the job easier? replacing HG with stock head gasket.. ARP are regular head stud kit.. not the 625's? or w/e they are. Also doing 60# valve springs while im in there.. little advice would be great b4 i start.

Key notes.. nothing wrong with Head gasket now.. just want to stud the head so i can run a 66mm turbo. that being said i was told i don't need to machine the head. Not going to port and polish it since i have a Street Cam to help with airflow
 
Don't waste your time and money pulling the head then. Get a pulley tap, it can bottom tap the holes with the head on. You need a M12x1.75 I highly recommend eBay for one, I have bought a few off of there for less than $10 shipped.

Start in the center, take one out, bottom tap it, stick a magnet down there to clean the hole out and then put the stud in. Remember moly lube is your friend when cranking them down, don't cheap out on it or you will not be consistent on your torque values.
 
Id like to pull head to take a look in the cylinders as it is for scoring.. motor has123k on it.. already bought the stock HG.. just seems easier to pull it replace HG and stud it without head on. Hoist makes it easy lifting
 
I'd also say leave the head on if there is nothing wrong with it. If you pull the head, get it o-ringed while you're there.

As for tips, don't forget to disconnect the coolant temp sensor. Many have done it (including myself), you might pull the wires out, or break the sensor.
 
You do not need that, you need one of these - contact the first seller to get a OAL (over all length) first, but that is the one I use most of the time as it is easier to use than a standard tap.

tap

Tap
 
ummm you wont be able to install the studs then put the head on, or at least not all the studs

order a valve spring swapper outter tool thingy from tork tek if you leave the head on

at 123K there shouldnt be any scoring and the cross hatch should look new
 
wow now i feel really stupid.. so i was under them impression that with machined rockers on the head.. i could lower the head down ontop of all the studs and it would just slide down onto them.. then put nuts on bolts and torque down ??
 
head on: swap out the bolts for studs one by one

head off: set the head on then drop all the studs in and torque it all down, dont forget to do the re-torques also
 
Ya, you gotta put the head on before putting in any studs. Guess I could have said that before. Hints why I said to leave it on and do it one at a time. At 123k unless it has been a hard life it will be fine.
 
DIY

Never done a tap.. seems easy enough, but anyone here that would attempt it themselves? or would everyone take it to pros? lol pros want like 700 bucks to headstud.. change out a few gaskets (HG/top end gaskest, rear main seal, front crank seal) do 60# springs.. machine rockers and put in a 4k GSK.. 700 sound right for that work?
 
you can do all of that but the rear main on a saturday afternoon/evening
 
I have done countless studs sets. Shoot the first one I did was on my truck with 35k on her, still under warranty but I blew the HG so I did it myself and upgraded a few pars while she was apart. As said above, you can do it all in a day if you have the proper tools and such with you. If you have a friend who was done it before buy them some beer or whatever and have them come supervise. If not read up on it and print the procedure to have with you when doing the job, makes it a ton easier for reference.
 
Thanks man.. i just dont wanna **** it up.. taping the block what can go wrong? lol trying to find somone local to Hampton roads that can lend a hand sourced it out to dieselbombers web site to see if anyone around the area.

once the head studs done.. motor pretty much set... just want to paint it after that! so getting that P-pump off sucks.. aparently 180+ lbs tq on that nut?? haha not getting it off with hand tools tell ya that.
 
brianjbeach85 said:
Thanks man.. i just dont wanna **** it up.. taping the block what can go wrong? lol trying to find somone local to Hampton roads that can lend a hand sourced it out to dieselbombers web site to see if anyone around the area.

once the head studs done.. motor pretty much set... just want to paint it after that! so getting that P-pump off sucks.. aparently 180+ lbs tq on that nut?? haha not getting it off with hand tools tell ya that.
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If you can't break that by hand, you've got issues. You're gonna have to tighten it by hand if you want to do it properly.
 
Its all about leverage on the pump nut. If you can not break it loose you will never get it tight enough not to slip again. Grow a pair and do it properly with HAND tools.
 
And I'd be careful torquing the pump nut that tight. I believe cummins spec is like 144 ft lbs. You don't want to pull the threads off the pump shaft.
 
You will strip the nut before you strip the shaft, trust me, I've done it and boy will it scare the crap out of you when you do. The good news is the front of a second gen can be off in 45 minutes.
 
06 DIESEL said:
You will strip the nut before you strip the shaft, trust me, I've done it and boy will it scare the crap out of you when you do. The good news is the front of a second gen can be off in 45 minutes.
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You hope. Why take the chance? Just torque it and be done. I've seen 3 different guys pull the threads on the pump shaft. That is a costly repair that could have been saved by using a torque wrench and torquing it to the proper spec. I've went pretty high on them before, but I don't like to.
 
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