Battery disconnect if relocating the battery?

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dpaqu

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I have a 93 D250 RCLB that I'm converting to a P-Pump. Just finished rebuilding the trans and adding a electric pre lift pump, pump. If that makes sense.

I'm thinking about converting from 1 to 2 batteries and putting them under the bed. My understanding is most sanctioning bodies require a battery cut off switch. Especially if you relocate the batteries. My understanding is that it must also kill the engine. How are you guys wiring this? Where did you put the switch?

Thanks in advance!
 
8:1 BATTERIES
All batteries must be securely mounted; must be of sufficient capacity to start vehicle at any time. Batteries may not be relocated into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024-inch steel or .032-inch aluminum (including package tray) required when battery is relocated in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery may be located in a sealed .024-inch steel, .032-inch aluminum, or NHRA-accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear firewall, box may not be used to secure battery and must be vented outside of body. Relocated battery(s) must be fastened to frame or frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8-inch-diameter bolts. OEM located batteries without complete OEM hold-down hardware must be secured to OEM battery box/tray using the same 3/8-inch-diameter bolt hold-down method described in previous sentence. (“J” hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.) Metal battery hold-down straps mandatory. Strapping tape prohibited. A maximum of two automobile batteries, or 150 pounds combined maximum weight (unless otherwise specified in Class Requirements), is permitted. Maximums may vary according to Class Requirements.
 
8:4 MASTER CUTOFF
Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class Requirements. An electrical power cutoff switch (one only) must be installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition. The off position must be clearly indicated with the word “OFF.” If switch is “push/pull” type, “push” must be the action for shutting off the electrical system, “pull” to turn it on. Any rods or cables used to activate the switch must be minimum 1/8-inch diameter. Plastic or keyed switches prohibited. Switches and/or controls must be located behind rear wheels on rear-engine dragsters.
 
I wonder if can mount the switch so it is accessible when the tail light is removed. That would keep folks from messing with it when I'm parked somewhere.
 
i just use manual cables for the fuel shut off. my battery is just for starter and gauges
 

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I think the point is so a safety crew can disconnect your batteries if something goes wrong. I would guess no you cannot hide the switch behind a tail light. Just mount it inside the bed where most people put their rv wiring plug, very few people would ever notice it there.

96 3500 5x018 7mm dvs 62fmw
 
badbowtie said:
I think the point is so a safety crew can disconnect your batteries if something goes wrong. I would guess no you cannot hide the switch behind a tail light. Just mount it inside the bed where most people put their rv wiring plug, very few people would ever notice it there.

96 3500 5x018 7mm dvs 62fmw
Click to expand...

I meant that I would take the tail light out at the track but you make inside the bed sound OK.
 
the fuel lever on the p pump. doesnt matter if electric lift pump or not.still shuts the motor off
 
if u just cut off the electric switch it will still run for a few seconds and most likely lose prime . if u wanna have all elctric then u need the electric solenoid on the pump that moves the fuel lever arm with 12v power
 
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