best twin turbos brand and injectors and trans for the 6.0

I have a Transmission with suncoast parts and I love it. I have recently replaced the intermediate shaft but that was from tuning (my shifts were way to firm for that little shaft). I have a spec rite converter and it spools quick and locks hard. Good luck with your build 900hp would be sweet to see.
 
How do you like Swamps Diesel Injectors......I am curious because they have a good price....
 
I forgot about Buddy at EDP. They did a beautiful job on Mike Dillehay's truck.
 
CanadianRedneck said:
Best turbo brand- Unless you build it yourself your choices are limited, BWD, Elite, and I think Spartan offer twin turbo kits.

Injectors- Lots of choices, Hypermax, Casserly, Industrial, Elite, Spartan, etc. They all have their good points and bad. Don't take the sizing to heart though, different companies size them differently.

Tranny- Lots of choices again but I recommend a NADP Race Tranny. They are tough and work real good.

You can get 700-900hp if you do things right. My truck has dyno'd over 700hp uncorrected but dyno numbers don't mean crap really. They are more of a tuning tool. It's way too easy to fudge dyno numbers. Good luck with your build anyway.

Tyler
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this guy pretty much summed it up perfectly... you need to be more specific with your goals however.. are you building a race only trailer queen ?? are you building a daily driver ?? are you going to be towing anything ?

TWINS: if you have any mechanical inclination and good at welding i would recomend building and fabbing up your own system. it's the cheapest way to go, and you know that it will be done right.

INJECTORS: depends on your goals. i've run casserly's 175's and had no problems till i damaged them from my own actions. i'm currently running 200's by josh davis (believe he builds spartan's injectors) they are good for daily driving, and still make head turning power and et's..

TRANNY: heard good things about Suncoast, John Wood, and NADP. i've got suncoast spec'd tranny and HD converter with extra large sprag.

and again, DYNO numbers don't really mean much in terms of what most people think. i've heard a lot of different "formulas/calculators" and have yet to find one that is accurate. my dyno results aren't high enough to turn any heads (under 700) and yet somehow my ET's/MPH are within tenths and a only a couple of MPH of guys who claim that it takes 1000RWHP to achieve....
as long as you do your homework and get a good package of parts that work together with each other you should be able to put together a really good truck ! good luck man..
 
ChiefMC said:
How do you like Swamps Diesel Injectors......I am curious because they have a good price....
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I am happy with them, they were a little small for how much air I have but when I get a chance they are going to fix that for me.
 
SinCityDiesel said:
this guy pretty much summed it up perfectly... you need to be more specific with your goals however.. are you building a race only trailer queen ?? are you building a daily driver ?? are you going to be towing anything ?

TWINS: if you have any mechanical inclination and good at welding i would recomend building and fabbing up your own system. it's the cheapest way to go, and you know that it will be done right.

INJECTORS: depends on your goals. i've run casserly's 175's and had no problems till i damaged them from my own actions. i'm currently running 200's by josh davis (believe he builds spartan's injectors) they are good for daily driving, and still make head turning power and et's..

TRANNY: heard good things about Suncoast, John Wood, and NADP. i've got suncoast spec'd tranny and HD converter with extra large sprag.

and again, DYNO numbers don't really mean much in terms of what most people think. i've heard a lot of different "formulas/calculators" and have yet to find one that is accurate. my dyno results aren't high enough to turn any heads (under 700) and yet somehow my ET's/MPH are within tenths and a only a couple of MPH of guys who claim that it takes 1000RWHP to achieve....
as long as you do your homework and get a good package of parts that work together with each other you should be able to put together a really good truck ! good luck man..
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Agree with everything you've written. But inquiring minds want to know, and maybe I have been out of the loop and missed it, but in your last paragraph, you mention some high-performance figures, and I wanted to know, what kind of times and MPH are you running?

I agree 100% about the dyno numbers not meaning much. I have many times seen those peaky HP curves, and to me, they are useless. You want a nice broad power band. For the 6.0, we should define the optimum shifting range for 1/4 mile runs. Maybe it is 3000-4000 or so, depending on your set up (crank balancing, etc). That is, a much better indication of how well a truck can do in the 1/4 is the power output in the normal shifting range. Not the peak, but the area under the curve. So, if you shift at 4200 and it drops to ~3500 each time, then look at the HP or torque curve vs. RPM in that RPM range (3500-4200). Now get the area under that curve. The more area you can get in the shifting range, the better you should be able to do on the track, assuming you can put the power down (hook up). Any of you guys who use the dyno to tune for the track use an approach like that? If not, what strategy do you employ to determine changes you need to make when you see the dyno charts?
 
ralphinnj said:
Agree with everything you've written. But inquiring minds want to know, and maybe I have been out of the loop and missed it, but in your last paragraph, you mention some high-performance figures, and I wanted to know, what kind of times and MPH are you running?

I agree 100% about the dyno numbers not meaning much. I have many times seen those peaky HP curves, and to me, they are useless. You want a nice broad power band. For the 6.0, we should define the optimum shifting range for 1/4 mile runs. Maybe it is 3000-4000 or so, depending on your set up (crank balancing, etc). That is, a much better indication of how well a truck can do in the 1/4 is the power output in the normal shifting range. Not the peak, but the area under the curve. So, if you shift at 4200 and it drops to ~3500 each time, then look at the HP or torque curve vs. RPM in that RPM range (3500-4200). Now get the area under that curve. The more area you can get in the shifting range, the better you should be able to do on the track, assuming you can put the power down (hook up). Any of you guys who use the dyno to tune for the track use an approach like that? If not, what strategy do you employ to determine changes you need to make when you see the dyno charts?
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Ralph, A few years back I had a customer datalog the mph going down the track. On the gear changes you could actually see the truck slow down by 1 or 2mph. As we raised the shift points from 3700 up to 4200 rpm in 100rpm incriments the mph drop off would lessen. Just something we tried.
 
ralphinnj said:
Agree with everything you've written. But inquiring minds want to know, and maybe I have been out of the loop and missed it, but in your last paragraph, you mention some high-performance figures, and I wanted to know, what kind of times and MPH are you running?

I agree 100% about the dyno numbers not meaning much. I have many times seen those peaky HP curves, and to me, they are useless. You want a nice broad power band. For the 6.0, we should define the optimum shifting range for 1/4 mile runs. Maybe it is 3000-4000 or so, depending on your set up (crank balancing, etc). That is, a much better indication of how well a truck can do in the 1/4 is the power output in the normal shifting range. Not the peak, but the area under the curve. So, if you shift at 4200 and it drops to ~3500 each time, then look at the HP or torque curve vs. RPM in that RPM range (3500-4200). Now get the area under that curve. The more area you can get in the shifting range, the better you should be able to do on the track, assuming you can put the power down (hook up). Any of you guys who use the dyno to tune for the track use an approach like that? If not, what strategy do you employ to determine changes you need to make when you see the dyno charts?
Click to expand...

hey ralph good to hear from you again bro, it's been a while. yeah i've been away from the boards for a while too got wrapped up in a new job and really put a lot of work into the truck again. since we've spoke last i've had the tranny rebuilt again, and broken another torque converter. i had one of my injector nozzles break rebuilt, but somehow i think that was the tip of the iceberg for me and my injector relationship. anywho once i finally got the heavier duty sprag installed in my torque converter and could get it to spool up and launch i took it out and beat on it pretty hard. w/a .052 jet on the NOS and a grudge match with my buddy's Dmax i ended up with a bittersweet night. i managed a best of 11.74 @ 117 and ended up with at least one if not more bad injectors (or hopefully maybe just an elec. prob?) and a pretty good oil leak not to mention the puking issue it's had for several months, and a vacuum leak for the front hubs.
the truck always idled very bad when it was cold, but it would smooth out once it was fully warmed up and i thought this was normal with large injectors. the more people i talk to tell me that this is not normal and even with larger injectors they would have a smooth idle even when cold...
this really pulls me in several directions now. on one side i'm really pissed because that means that these injectors were not 100% even when i first put them in, and i'm getting NO response from josh regarding them. he has returned NONE of my phone calls since he sent me the nozzle to fix the broken one i got from him. however, on the flip side, i'm thinking that once i yank these injectors out and have them fixed, perhaps i'll be able to make even more power with them, at least that's the only positive thought i could take away from this whole situation. however it's going to need some serious work now, have to machine the block deck flat, and either machine the heads or get new ones, track down and fix the oil leak (somewhere on the passenger side of motor) , find the vacuum leak... as far as dyno goes the most i was able to put down was 667HP, but something happened at the track that night because it's barely making enough power to get around now.
as for the dyno graphs and stuff yeah i agree with you, and this seems to be somewhat of a personal project for you it seems and i'm hoping we can figure out this 6.0 stuff soon because i'm not sure how much longer i am going to live with this motor. i might start reading up and learning all that i can now about the 5.9cummins because i'm seriously entertaining the notion of going that route if it breaks again. and to anyone (not you ralph) who wants to jump on the bash me wagon and talk crap about my times i really don't have the time to respond to all the haters that seem to come out of the woodwork everytime someone other than them accomplishes something so save us both the time
 
PSDPlayer said:
Ralph, A few years back I had a customer datalog the mph going down the track. On the gear changes you could actually see the truck slow down by 1 or 2mph. As we raised the shift points from 3700 up to 4200 rpm in 100rpm incriments the mph drop off would lessen. Just something we tried.
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Thanks Doug, that is interesting. I guess that makes sense. The faster it is spinning, the more momentum, so less slow down. But I recall Gene (weweld) saying that they tried reducing shift points from 4200 and it yielded slightly better ET's. I think this is because lower RPM shifting puts you more in the peak of the torque band. I see what you are saying about MPH loss at the moment of shifting. I guess it is a trade off in there, because if it was just driven by torque, we would be shifting at 3500.
 
SinCityDiesel said:
hey ralph good to hear from you again bro, it's been a while. yeah i've been away from the boards for a while too got wrapped up in a new job and really put a lot of work into the truck again. since we've spoke last i've had the tranny rebuilt again, and broken another torque converter. i had one of my injector nozzles break rebuilt, but somehow i think that was the tip of the iceberg for me and my injector relationship. anywho once i finally got the heavier duty sprag installed in my torque converter and could get it to spool up and launch i took it out and beat on it pretty hard. w/a .052 jet on the NOS and a grudge match with my buddy's Dmax i ended up with a bittersweet night. i managed a best of 11.74 @ 117 and ended up with at least one if not more bad injectors (or hopefully maybe just an elec. prob?) and a pretty good oil leak not to mention the puking issue it's had for several months, and a vacuum leak for the front hubs.
the truck always idled very bad when it was cold, but it would smooth out once it was fully warmed up and i thought this was normal with large injectors. the more people i talk to tell me that this is not normal and even with larger injectors they would have a smooth idle even when cold...
this really pulls me in several directions now. on one side i'm really pissed because that means that these injectors were not 100% even when i first put them in, and i'm getting NO response from josh regarding them. he has returned NONE of my phone calls since he sent me the nozzle to fix the broken one i got from him. however, on the flip side, i'm thinking that once i yank these injectors out and have them fixed, perhaps i'll be able to make even more power with them, at least that's the only positive thought i could take away from this whole situation. however it's going to need some serious work now, have to machine the block deck flat, and either machine the heads or get new ones, track down and fix the oil leak (somewhere on the passenger side of motor) , find the vacuum leak... as far as dyno goes the most i was able to put down was 667HP, but something happened at the track that night because it's barely making enough power to get around now.
as for the dyno graphs and stuff yeah i agree with you, and this seems to be somewhat of a personal project for you it seems and i'm hoping we can figure out this 6.0 stuff soon because i'm not sure how much longer i am going to live with this motor. i might start reading up and learning all that i can now about the 5.9cummins because i'm seriously entertaining the notion of going that route if it breaks again. and to anyone (not you ralph) who wants to jump on the bash me wagon and talk crap about my times i really don't have the time to respond to all the haters that seem to come out of the woodwork everytime someone other than them accomplishes something so save us both the time
Click to expand...

Thanks for the update. Injectors are the key to 6.0 performance. The rest is all basic stuff. Sorry to hear you are having some trouble. I am sure Josh will come around and help you straighten this out. If not, there are other injector options. Try to find out what is causing them to fail. One place to look is at your HPOP system to make sure you are feeding the injectors sufficently. If they don't get the pressure they like, they will fail and it won't matter if Josh gives you a brand new set. I'm not saying it is your HPOP, just saying that the injectors depend on several variables and if mistreated, they fail quite easily.

By the way, excellent times/MPH.
 
ralphinnj said:
Thanks for the update. Injectors are the key to 6.0 performance. The rest is all basic stuff. Sorry to hear you are having some trouble. I am sure Josh will come around and help you straighten this out. If not, there are other injector options. Try to find out what is causing them to fail. One place to look is at your HPOP system to make sure you are feeding the injectors sufficently. If they don't get the pressure they like, they will fail and it won't matter if Josh gives you a brand new set. I'm not saying it is your HPOP, just saying that the injectors depend on several variables and if mistreated, they fail quite easily.

By the way, excellent times/MPH.
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HPOP is good, and i've got plenty of fuel. i just installed the newer updated balls from Dan at FASS that are supposed to seat better in the pump housing, and the fuel pressure is better, and it runs a 'tad' better, but the misfire actually keeps getting worse the more i drive it, so i've been leaving it sit. i am taking it to a buddy who is a ford diesel svc. tech and have him diagnose it and tell me if it is a bad injector and if so which one. or maybe if it is a wiring harness probably (not with my luck though)..
i've left several messages for josh and he hasn't called me back. it's been several months now since i've heard from him so i'm really starting to think i'm not going to get any customer service on that end unfortunately..

i'm not going to hash out old stuff, but this ain't the first time that spartan has screwed me over a set of injectors, i will most likely just send them to casserly if they are bad and have him go over them, since he has always done right by me and my friends.

thanks for the kind words, i was really hoping to make it to phoenix this weekend but it's WAY down on power and i'm 'this close' to putting the vgt-ss back on and throwing some stock sticks in for now just so that i will have a reliable truck to drive every day because i'm getting sick of having to work on it every time i come home from the track. :(
 
SinCityDiesel said:
HPOP is good, and i've got plenty of fuel. i just installed the newer updated balls from Dan at FASS that are supposed to seat better in the pump housing, and the fuel pressure is better, and it runs a 'tad' better, but the misfire actually keeps getting worse the more i drive it, so i've been leaving it sit. i am taking it to a buddy who is a ford diesel svc. tech and have him diagnose it and tell me if it is a bad injector and if so which one. or maybe if it is a wiring harness probably (not with my luck though)..
i've left several messages for josh and he hasn't called me back. it's been several months now since i've heard from him so i'm really starting to think i'm not going to get any customer service on that end unfortunately..

i'm not going to hash out old stuff, but this ain't the first time that spartan has screwed me over a set of injectors, i will most likely just send them to casserly if they are bad and have him go over them, since he has always done right by me and my friends.

thanks for the kind words, i was really hoping to make it to phoenix this weekend but it's WAY down on power and i'm 'this close' to putting the vgt-ss back on and throwing some stock sticks in for now just so that i will have a reliable truck to drive every day because i'm getting sick of having to work on it every time i come home from the track. :(
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im right there with you about going back to stock sticks with an upgraded vgt turbo, i havent even made a good run without something going wrong.
 
redracer62 said:
im right there with you about going back to stock sticks with an upgraded vgt turbo, i havent even made a good run without something going wrong.
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what happened to you this weekend ? i just briefly caught something about you having trouble with some 'pump' ?

and yeah, this is getting old. i am dead serious when i say that my truck breaks EVERY single time i go to the track ! argh!
 
SinCityDiesel said:
what happened to you this weekend ? i just briefly caught something about you having trouble with some 'pump' ?

and yeah, this is getting old. i am dead serious when i say that my truck breaks EVERY single time i go to the track ! argh!
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i got a few dial in runs and then my fuel pupm took a dump and i didnt even get to qualify. sucks cause i spent so much time getting the truck ready.im starting to get the feeling that my truck probably wont ever run right, or a least the times i want out of it.

did you run your truck?
 
redracer62 said:
i got a few dial in runs and then my fuel pupm took a dump and i didnt even get to qualify. sucks cause i spent so much time getting the truck ready.im starting to get the feeling that my truck probably wont ever run right, or a least the times i want out of it.

did you run your truck?
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haven't got it fixed yet. only thing i got done was changing out my FASS for the THIRD time, and rewiring it AGAIN so it would stop blowing fuses.
haven't got the vacuum leak fixed, but i removed my center caps so i can just hop out and lock the hubs by hand when i need 4wd, but as far as the misfiring issue and the puking issue i need to take it to the tech and have him do some work on it before it's track ready.
the way it's been misfiring and cutting out i'd be damned lucky to even crack off a high 12 so really no point, and even then it would leave so much coolant on the track they'd have to come by with a clean up crew and that's just plain embarassing not to mention dangerous for the next guy.
 
Give us a call we would be happy to get you in the right direction to reach your goals.
Like many have stated its not going to come easy but we enjoy challenges!!!!!
 
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