Big time problems...Need some Help BAD!!!!!

Bosshawg600

Bosshawg600

PDP.com FireFighter
Joined
Aug 3, 2006
Messages
3,651
Ok, so today had to be one of the worst days working on the truck EVER!!! It was one of those days were you instal one thing, but have to take 3 things off!

So here is how the day started. All I had to do is set the valve lash, hook up the batteries and it would start for the first time....so needless to say Im pretty excided!

Started to set valve lash exactly to specifications. Got half way through, then had to turn to motor over to get the last half.......something is hitting something!

After about an hour of head scratching and taking things off, nothing hit. Now the motor turned freely with out the rockers on, so that helped me narrow it donw. Well I didnt see anything hit on the intake side when I first turned the motor over, so it narrowed it down again to the exhaust side.

More toruble shooting later, some how my cam was about 40* out if time. So, weasy fix, I thought...NOT EVEN CLOSE!!!! Got the cam back in time. Right down to exactly where it should be. Well that should be it, contact is gone. set the first set of valves, lash is dead on. rotated the more over to get th next set. Now for some reason #5 piston exhaust and #4 intake is trying to compress the spring when I put the rockers on. Checked to make sure the push rods are seated in the tappets, they are sitting in there just fine. Checked everything I could think of and it all is where it is supposed to be. I finally just had to walk away from the truck due to utter frustration of being sow close to starting the motor and now all this is happening!

Now my biggest problem is that ive almost run out of things that i can think of that could cause this.

But my last ditch trouble shooting is Im not 100% sure how far to turn the crank from TDC to get BDC. We turned the crank 180* to get BDC. Is this correct? Do I still need to turn the crank more? Less?

Any pointers from guys that have run into stuff like this???????
 
tools.
10 mm for cover bolts
9/16 and a 5mm allen wrench for the adjustments
15mm on a long 1/2 drive to turn the motor over..

140k on the clock, mine were LOOSE!
recomended specs are .010/. 020
int tolerance .006/.014
exhaust tolerance .016/.024
i set mine .008/.018

directly from svc man:
STANDARD PROCEDURE - VALVE LASH
ADJUSTMENT AND VERIFICATION
NOTE: To obtain accurate readings, valve lash measurements
AND adjustments should only be performed
when the engine coolant temperature is less
than 60° C (140° F).
The 24–valve overhead system is a “low-maintenance”
design. Routine adjustments are no longer
necessary, however, measurement should still take
place when trouble-shooting performance problems,
or upon completion of a repair that includes removal
and installation of the valve train components or
injectors.
(1) Disconnect battery negative cables.
(2) Remove cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(3) Using the crankshaft barring tool #7471–B,
rotate crankshaft to align damper TDC mark to
12:00 o’clock position.
(a) If both number one cylinder rocker levers are
loose, continue to next step.
(b) If both number one clylinder rocker levers
are not loose, rotate crankshaft 360 degrees.
(4) With the engine in this position, valve lash can
be measured at the following rocker arms: INTAKE
1–2–4 / EXHAUST 1–3–5. Measure the valve lash by
inserting a feeler gauge between the rocker arm
socket and crosshead (Fig. 32). Refer to VALVE
LASH LIMIT CHART for the correct specifications. If
the measurement falls within the limits, adjustment/
resetting is not necessary. If measurement
finds the lash outside of the limits, adjustment/resetting

is
required.
VALVE LASH LIMIT CHART
INTAKE EXHAUST
0.152 mm ( 0.006 in.)
MIN.
0.381 mm (0.015 in.)
MIN.
0.381 mm (0.015 in.)
MAX.
0.762 mm (0.030 in.)
MAX.
note:
If measured valve lash falls within these
specifications, no adjustment/reset is necessary.
Engine operation within these ranges has no adverse
affect on performance, emissions, fuel economy or
level of engine noise.
(5) If adjustment/resetting is required, loosen the
lock nut on rocker arms and turn the adjusting screw
until the desired lash is obtained:
²


INTAKE 0.254 mm (0.010 in.)
²


EXHAUST 0.508 mm (0.020 in.) Tighten the
lock nut to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) and re-check the valve
lash.
(6) Using the crankshaft barring tool, rotate the
crankshaft


one revolution (360°) to align the
damper TDC mark to the 12 o’clock position.
(7) With the engine in this position, valve lash can
be measured at the remaining rocker arms: INTAKE
3–5–6 / EXHAUST 2–4–6. Use the same method as
above for determining whether adjustment is necessary,
and adjust those that are found to be outside of
the limits.
(8) Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(9) Connect the battery negative cables.

The 24–valve overhead system is a “low-maintenance”
design. Routine adjustments are no longer
necessary, however, measurement should still take
place when trouble-shooting performance problems,
or upon completion of a repair that includes removal
and installation of the valve train components or
injectors.
(1) Disconnect battery negative cables.
(2) Remove cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(3) Using the crankshaft barring tool #7471–B,
rotate crankshaft to align damper TDC mark to
12:00 o’clock position.
(a) If both number one cylinder rocker levers are
loose, continue to next step.
(b) If both number one clylinder rocker levers
are not loose, rotate crankshaft 360 degrees.
(4) With the engine in this position, valve lash can
be measured at the following rocker arms: INTAKE
1–2–4 / EXHAUST 1–3–5. Measure the valve lash by
inserting a feeler gauge between the rocker arm
socket and crosshead (Fig. 32). Refer to VALVE
LASH LIMIT CHART for the correct specifications. If
the measurement falls within the limits, adjustment/
resetting is not necessary. If measurement
finds the lash outside of the limits, adjustment/resetting
is required.
VALVE LASH LIMIT CHART
INTAKE EXHAUST
0.152 mm ( 0.006 in.)
MIN.
0.381 mm (0.015 in.)
MIN.
0.381 mm (0.015 in.)
MAX.
0.762 mm (0.030 in.)
MAX.
note:
If measured valve lash falls within these
specifications, no adjustment/reset is necessary.
Engine operation within these ranges has no adverse
affect on performance, emissions, fuel economy or
level of engine noise.
(5) If adjustment/resetting is required, loosen the
lock nut on rocker arms and turn the adjusting screw
until the desired lash is obtained:
² INTAKE 0.254 mm (0.010 in.)
² EXHAUST 0.508 mm (0.020 in.) Tighten the
lock nut to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) and re-check the valve
lash.
(6) Using the crankshaft barring tool, rotate the
crankshaft one revolution (360) to align the
damper TDC mark to the 12 o’clock position.
(7) With the engine in this position, valve lash can
be measured at the remaining rocker arms: INTAKE
3–5–6 / EXHAUST 2–4–6. Use the same method as
above for determining whether adjustment is necessary,
and adjust those that are found to be outside of
the limits.
(8) Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(9) Connect the battery negative cables.
 
Looks like I got something to print off! Now I just hope this works!!!!!!!
 
4 strokes run off a 720* cycle, roll the motor 360* to get BDC.

I took out all my pushrods last year trying to rush getting the motor back together and adjusting valves wrong. Wish I would've walked away out of frustration myself.
 
kas83 said:
4 strokes run off a 720* cycle, roll the motor 360* to get BDC.

I took out all my pushrods last year trying to rush getting the motor back together and adjusting valves wrong. Wish I would've walked away out of frustration myself.
Click to expand...

Thats exactly what I did. And the fact that i was looking for a torch and a can of gas to set it on fire. It was just one of those days that I just was so flustered that I couldnt think straight. The entire motor build I have been EXTREAMLY patient, and it just boiled over yesterday. No sense ruining 3 months of building a motor for a moment of frustration!

Gonna go back tomorrow with a clear head and try to get everything solved! Wish me luck, I might need it!


And I didnt even list all the problems I had that same day that put me over the edge! 2 hours to get all the tappets pulled up to rate the cam, put it back it and it was 180* out of time.....had to do it all over again! Not to mention somehow a rocker stud hole striped out! after that happened...I just called it a night!
 
Mark your dampener with chalk or gear paint, and then mark an immovable point on the engine that lines up with your mark. I chose a bolt that was right by the dampener. Once you get the first set of valves set, turn the engine until it comes back to that point and the marks line up again.
 
As of right now I have the timing case cover off ( just incase I have to tear into the motor again) and Im using the key way on the crank to get TDC (key way faces at exactly 1200 at TDC) But I think the biggest problem was lack of sleep and lost of stress by the end of the night causeing us to not think right.

Ill be out there tomorrow to try and re set valve lash, so Ill keep it posted!
 
Why not just rotate the motor in the direction of normal rotation and adjust the intake when the exhaust begins to open, then adjust the exhaust when the intake starts to close. You should be on the base circle of the cam this way and it's very easy to visually verify. You can inverse this if you're using the alternator nut to retate the motor opposite of normal rotation. Worked well for me and easier in my opinion but that's just my opinion.
 
Smokem said:
I run through them one at a time, seen a lot of mistakes from people doing it the other way.
Click to expand...

Now I was continplating doing that, but I was worrid that it might throw it off some how. No mind you this is no stock cam, and the pistons are cut down quite a bit!
 
Smokem said:
I watch each valve move through the range, once it's on the base circle I set the lash, cam profile doesn't matter.
Click to expand...

X2

Yet I was taught to loosen everyone of the nuts at one time....Rotate with the altenator bolt and watch them come up.....Do one at a time and tighten....Any nuts left loose haven't been done......All tight, YOUR DONE!!

.02
 
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