billet bridges

zstroken

zstroken

For $$$ your name here
Joined
Sep 27, 2006
Messages
23,151
Who sells billet bridges for a 24V? Are they needed if your running high spring pressures?
 
I think brandon had the dirty on this. Something like cryro the bridges and run stock valve retainers, A/M locks

Dont hold me too that though.
 
EEP has them and so does Haisley. A 3.0 puller buddy ran them on his and he had trouble with them breaking so he went back to stock ones. But i have also heard that they solved that issue. That is the only thing i didnt buy for my valvetrain mainly because he told me they werent worth the money.
 
never seen a stock one break, ever and I've turned then 6000 many times . Stock retainers are more of a problem.
you would be shocked at what these things look like in stobe on a spintron.
 
Glad I seen this. I was thinking about ordering a set for my build later on. Wish they would hold up. Less weight on top of the valve stem and spring would be a plus so the valvetrain geometry would be more stable and less spring and valve wobble at high RPMs.
 
kino_fab said:
Glad I seen this. I was thinking about ordering a set for my build later on. Wish they would hold up. Less weight on top of the valve stem and spring would be a plus so the valvetrain geometry would be more stable and less spring and valve wobble at high RPMs.
Click to expand...

I have seen them, friend has them on his truck, but they don't weigh less. My fear with high spring pressures and high rpm how well the stockers will hold. I don't need the springs, locks and retainers, I just need the bridges. Another advantage looks like there is a higher installed height to allow more spring travel.
 
zstroken said:
I have seen them, friend has them on his truck, but they don't weigh less. My fear with high spring pressures and high rpm how well the stockers will hold. I don't need the springs, locks and retainers, I just need the bridges. Another advantage looks like there is a higher installed height to allow more spring travel.
Click to expand...

the trick is to use the correct valve and spring comb , I use a 1.600 installed height spring and titanium retainer .
This spring allows .600+ lift , which is necessary if you want to get all there is out of the best 24 valve heads.
I have also cut down the stands to get the geometry correct . Its important to have the rocker at a 90 degree at mid lift .
I also use a 7/16 taper walled push rod in the exact length.
Weight is something to make an attempt to reduce , but at the low rpm’s we are turning , in comparison to a gas engine the gains are minimal in compairason to getting the correct cam profiles and valve train stability.
All of the gains made in Pro Stock over the last few years in a direct result to valve train stability innovations.
 
I've dealt with Steve Lowe at LSM for years , I use to see him all of his GM Performance Parts and the blocks and heads that went in to Pro Stock , and Pro Stock Truck .
in any form of Motor sports half of the engine budget should be spent on the cylinder head and valve train. That said , if it come between more port work , or a 60 mm cam , or a bigger bore , to facilitate bigger valves , then that should be the last dollar spent.
Start with lift and work back.
 
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