Blown Head Gasket

J

JLWelding

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Apr 29, 2009
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I put a rebuilt head on my truck and it blew gasket in about 3 days now it has a slite miss , I am guessing between cylinders, have not ran compression test yet.
I need some sugestions on what I need to do next time. I torqued the head 50 the first round, 77 the second and rechecked the third round then 1/4 turn after that.
Shoud I try copper coat on gasket? Torque a little more? Get new bolts? I heard 3rd gen bolts a little stronger?
 
Go for the stock gasket and some ARP's. I was told that the stock gasket with my 625's should hold 70#. Havent found out yet, can't fuel past 50#. Good luck!
 
I dont know what shape the factory bolts are in but that 1/4 turn is strange.I would go with torque spec.Dont quote me but 120 for factory bolts is close.Did you clean the block?Did you beat on it to soon?Did you recheck after a few heat cycles?
 
Stock gasket and ARP 2000's will suffice unless your looking at Over 40lbs of boost then you should have O-rings. Take the studs to 140 lbs and you'll be good. I go 50 in sequence, then 130 in sequence, then half a turn back in sequence, the 130 in sequence, then half turn back in sequence, then 140 in sequence.
 
BigB82789 said:
Stock gasket and ARP 2000's will suffice unless your looking at Over 40lbs of boost then you should have O-rings. Take the studs to 140 lbs and you'll be good. I go 50 in sequence, then 130 in sequence, then half a turn back in sequence, the 130 in sequence, then half turn back in sequence, then 140 in sequence.
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What about lube, does it come with studs? I have read to order more. This write up sounds good to me. You can read so much you get lost.
I am not going to do any more mods. than what I have. The original gasket blew so I went ahead and had another head rebuilt and this happens, has not been a good past few weeks. Should I retap the threads when doing this? Or just clean holes, lube and run them down?
 
Stock bolts and gasket will work for 40-50psi no problem. Just make sure they are torqued to factory specs. If you want to do studs then torque em to 120 and you'll be fine. Clean the threads out, lube the studs, and screw em down leaving about a 1/4-1/2 turn off the bottom. Then torque em down to 120. My studs have been in for 5 years now and my 205k stock gasket is still holding in there and its seen over 45psi of boost since 2004.
 
I have stock bolts with Garmon voodoo.... 155lbs and holding 60+ just fine.
 
don't get regular ARP's, either spend the 1k on the 625's. Or go to Haisleys studs for 477.. You'll be much better off..

You should be fine with stock bolts torqued correctly though.
 
Why not regular arp? Myself and several others have had good luck with them.
 
Just my humble opinion....

But as cheap as it is to o-ring a head, there is no way in hell I'd go through all the work of pulling a head and NOT get it o-ringed.

It will add resale value to the truck, and you have the ability to up the boost down the road if you choose.
 
BgBlDodge said:
Why not regular arp? Myself and several others have had good luck with them.
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I have read far too many people breaking them due to pitting and rusting.. Mine were in for a very short time, and I saw the same problems. I pulled the studs out of a friends 24 valve, same issue. I won't waste my money on those again.
 
If hg is leaking between cylinders will it make it miss a lil or idle sound funny! Mine is doin the same thing. I think mine is leaking. I dont have oil looks good and water looks good i just think it may be leakin between cylinders!
 
Lucky Jeff said:
I have read far too many people breaking them due to pitting and rusting.. Mine were in for a very short time, and I saw the same problems. I pulled the studs out of a friends 24 valve, same issue. I won't waste my money on those again.
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Man my trucks got ARP2000's and oring'd head and my truck see's 80psi almost everyday... :ft:
 
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