Boiling Clutch Hydraulics

ryanihw350

ryanihw350

1stGENPULLER
Joined
Dec 30, 2007
Messages
409
I believe I am boiling my Clutch Hydraulics after each pull now. After the pull it won't engage the pressure plate, have to shut it off to get it in gear and shut it off to stop it when I press the clutch in.
I can let it sit for 10 min and it shifts just fine.

Is there any Fluid that won't boil as easy or a solution to this problem? It still has first gen hydraulics and the fluid is who knows how old. but the clutch acts fine when its not pulling.
Thanks
 
Your clutch is slipping to the point of warping or sticking together. I've done it many times. I hope your running sintered iron so it can take the heat if your running ceramic you better get ready to send it off
 
Smoke Machine is right, your warping your floater forcing the clutch to stay engaged. Stop slipping it so much or if its not you slipping the $hit out of it and its the motor overpowering the clutch, then look to a sintered iron disc clutch.

-Tom
 
I have had it happen and had the clutch out right after.No welding.Was told to try pumping the peddle and it will come back.It maybe boiling but it will come back.Just my thoughts from what has happened to me in the past
 
wilwood makes a high temp brake fluid for racing. I would start by changing what you have if its age is unknown brake fluid attracts moisture over time and its boiling point lowers.
 
Tcolesanti said:
Smoke Machine is right, your warping your floater forcing the clutch to stay engaged. Stop slipping it so much or if its not you slipping the $hit out of it and its the motor overpowering the clutch, then look to a sintered iron disc clutch.

-Tom
Click to expand...

What he said
 
Appreciate all the responses, I believe it is a warped floater plate, I know the disc have very little life left in them since the clutch is old.
I seen the wilwood fluid in Jegs and thought about trying it cause I bet the fluid is original if not it is old, since the truck is 20 years old.

I haven't slipped the clutch this season since I have alot more power with the p-pump. I ran this weekend and it didn't boil it the first run but did the second run.
here is the second run that I boiled the fluid
http://youtu.be/k0ePiUz6iTE
 
You might try a known good hydraulic system - some of the later hydros have an issue with the internal check valve that matches your observation.
 
XLR8R said:
You might try a known good hydraulic system - some of the later hydros have an issue with the internal check valve that matches your observation.
Click to expand...

Thanks I think that is one thing I am going to have to change. I was looking at changing the fluid but the 1st gen hydraulics are a sealed system. No bleeder, so it would be a pain to get the air out right?
 
The last hook looked good... I really don't know how you can boil the hydraulic oil.. fuild in the clutch circuit... If it was inside the bell housing I could see the heat getting high.. below are the boiling points I found for the DOT fuilds...

- Dry boiling point Wet boiling point
DOT 3 - 205 °C (401 °F) 140 °C (284 °F)
DOT 4 - 230 °C (446 °F) 155 °C (311 °F)
DOT 5 - 260 °C (500 °F) 180 °C (356 °F)
DOT 5.1 - 270 °C (518 °F) 190 °C (374 °F)

Wet boiling point defined as 3.7% water by volume


The 1st gen system should be self bleeding.. I know I have had the slave come apart, and put it back together... with no problems...

I'm interested to see how you come out with the first gen hydraulics.. as we are also setting up ours with a nv4500 with the adapter bell housing, using the 1st gen hydraulic... I guess I haven't tried to put the 2nd gen hydraulics on it.. I have an old set sitting here.. (2nd Gen) We are waiting on our clutch...

Good Luck.. interested to see what you find...
 
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