Break-in recomendations

Mopar Man

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Jul 11, 2008
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Ok the new engine is almost compleat, prob be done next week & will be going in as soon as its done, Its fully ballanced & blueprinted, some head work, coated pistons & barings, Hamilton HD Big stick cam, new push rods, & valve springs + everything else in my sig. what would you guys recomend for breaking it in. what oil, how long for the first oil changes, how hard to drive it, drive it like i stole it or baby it for a wile, or just drive it & dont abuse it... Give me your thoughts. TIA
 
Use a detergent ouil for the first 300-500 miles. Then change oil and filter, run the normal oil. Change at 1000 miles, and then its all good.

I waited atleast 1000 miles before i got on mine hard. Gave it time for the rings to set in and its been fine eve since!
 
Mother Cummins recommends to:

1. Run the engine at 1500-1800 RPM for the first 50 to 100 miles after rebuild.
2. To not idle the engine for more than 5 minutes during the first 100 miles of operation.

After that they're pretty silent.
 
what did you set your ring gap at and piston to bore that will change how you break it in
 
Mother Cummins recommends to:

1. Run the engine at 1500-1800 RPM for the first 50 to 100 miles after rebuild.
2. To not idle the engine for more than 5 minutes during the first 100 miles of operation.

After that they're pretty silent.

Go find a trailer and go pull some hills.

Combine those two and you're golden. The harder you can run it (without damage obviously) from 50 miles and up, the harder it's gonna work for you later in it's life.
 
I had pretty much the same rebuild you describe above. The advice above ^^^ is sound.. this is pretty much what I did. Except I waited for the first 1000 miles to tow the trailer then went on a nice long trip with it in the mountains. I changed the oil after the first 1000 miles, then 4000 after that (no reason other than to have the even 5k). Now at 9000 miles I am just starting to show the first gain in fuel mileage.
 
LOL.... On my motor, I let it high idle for 30 minutes or so, took it around the block for a cruise a couple of times, then did 5 monster burnouts, then put it on the dyno and laid down 958 with no tuning.... I figured it broke in.
 
Use a detergent ouil for the first 300-500 miles. Then change oil and filter, run the normal oil. Change at 1000 miles, and then its all good.

I waited atleast 1000 miles before i got on mine hard. Gave it time for the rings to set in and its been fine eve since!
What brands of oul you recomend? Dello 400???

Mother Cummins recommends to:

1. Run the engine at 1500-1800 RPM for the first 50 to 100 miles after rebuild.
2. To not idle the engine for more than 5 minutes during the first 100 miles of operation.

After that they're pretty silent.
Ya I was planing on 1500-2000 rpm for 15-20 min

Go find a trailer and go pull some hills.
Ill have to start looking around for one

what did you set your ring gap at and piston to bore that will change how you break it in
Nothing special, Just never broke in a diesel befor.

I had pretty much the same rebuild you describe above. The advice above ^^^ is sound.. this is pretty much what I did. Except I waited for the first 1000 miles to tow the trailer then went on a nice long trip with it in the mountains. I changed the oil after the first 1000 miles, then 4000 after that (no reason other than to have the even 5k). Now at 9000 miles I am just starting to show the first gain in fuel mileage.
I was planning on changing it & 500-1500, & 3000. but what you said is as good as any i guess.
 
One important thing not mentioned. Be sure to use a break in additive in the oil for the first two changes. Most of the newer CJ4 oils do not have enough zinc in them for proper break in protection. This protection is primarily for the cam/tappet surfaces, but benefits other areas too. I used crane cams break-in, but GM, redline and a couple of others are available too. Also, F1 and Hamilton cams offer a product as well.
 
One important thing not mentioned. Be sure to use a break in additive in the oil for the first two changes. Most of the newer CJ4 oils do not have enough zinc in them for proper break in protection. This protection is primarily for the cam/tappet surfaces, but benefits other areas too. I used crane cams break-in, but GM, redline and a couple of others are available too. Also, F1 and Hamilton cams offer a product as well.
Good advice, Thanks:Cheer:
 
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