Broke G56, weighing out the option$

Smokin ACE

1st gen turbo tester
Joined
Aug 26, 2010
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250
Put my new motor in my 06 this last fall and went ahead with a Southbend DD3600-G full ceramic clutch with hydraulic upgrade. Drained the ATF out of the trans that it had in it the last 190k (bought truck with bad motor) and filled/overfilled it with Mobil Delvac 50wt.

Put about 8000 miles on truck through the winter then finally got around to getting Firepunk EFI live tunes on it, well the g56 didn't even last 3 weeks. I was getting on it it the other night and went to shift to 4th and BOOOM clunk clunk clunk. Truck will go in all gears but 4th and it makes a good clunking in any gear or idling with the clutch disengaged. Haven't had time to rip it out or tear it apart yet and I'm still trying to figure out what to do. From what I've read/heard it probably broke the 4th gear and/or countershaft which is a costly fix from what I've found. Over $2000 for just a countershaft from the dealer plus whatever else it may need. The case doesn't appear to be cracked from the outside but didn't look super close yet.

My first plan was to find another used G56 and swap it in for now and rebuild this one and possibly have it cryo'd, girdle, etc and have it for a spare ready to go back in. But every used trans I can find at salvage yards has 150k+,and they want at least $2500 plus $1000 core. Called a few different trans places local and they don't even mess with them anymore saying they had too many comebacks and only reman them. So called across the midwest and found ranges on remans from $2600-6000 plus core. Ebay has some for $2200ish plus $1000 core but I'm a little nervous about ebay things nowadays.

I was planning on eating the core charge and rebuilding this one as I'm not afraid to tear into one. Has anyone on hear tore into one or messed with them with success? Only info I could find online about rebuilding them was this and looks like some special tools are involved:

http://docslide.us/documents/dodge-g56-service-manual.html

After talking to Lazarsmith and few other trans shops, supposedly they are a pretty picky trans to get them right and parts alone can be $2000 and up like the countershaft so then I got wondering if its even worth messing with. Why is there no aftermarket parts available for these yet? People just consider them scrap?

So I read up on NV5600 swap, some say its the only way to go, others still like the g56. I know of one out of an 02 and one out of an 04 that I thought about trying to get but it'd probably be $2-2500 then still have to modify crossmember, drivelines, and figure up a different clutch as it would cost $800-1000 for southbend to change mine for a 5600. I've read the NV5600s will break too though and heard parts for them are getting harder to find although the cases are stronger.

Even thought about a build auto but would have to change even more things to make that work, either manual valve body, or can I have my PCM reflashed for an Auto? or do I have to get an Auto PCM? Would like to stay manual but looking at the cost of doing so, a built auto is close to the same in the end.

I use the truck for daily driving, some towing and was planning on pulling it in work stock a few times this summer, so i knew something was going to happen at some point but didn't figure this early. It will probably stay below the 750hp range eventually. I understand you got pay to play but I know people have been in my shoes and wondered where to go as about any way I go about it, its at least a $3000 bill. I just want the best bang for my buck.

Do I stay with the G56? Spend $3500 on a reman and have spare to build with another $3-5k + $1000 girdle? I've already got $2k into just the clutch setup. What about the Gorilla G56's are they worth the $6500 for all the goodies and will they still hold up?

Or do I sell my clutch for say roughly $1500, sell the trans as a core for roughly $1000 and put that money towards a NV5600 and cross my fingers. What clutch would I want with the NV5600? Similar dual disc or are the triple discs the cats meow?

And then again the built auto idea is sounding cheaper and cheaper:pop:

Sorry for the long post, but any advice or input is appreciated.
 
You can re use your clutch with a 5600.

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When I called south bend they said they'd have to change some stuff and basically go through it. Its only got 8000 miles on it... I thought I read you just pull the spacer out from behind the flywheel and get a starter spacer from them? Or what else needs to be done? Hydraulics kit looks to be the same part for 03-12 so I'm guessing my hydraulics kit will work with a nv5600 as well.
 
I haven't yet, I noticed he had some cores in the classifieds but wasnt sure what I was doing yet so I didn't bug him. At first I was set on staying with the G56 but then after realizing what they want for just parts alone, the nv5600 started to look better. I think I made a deal with a friend of mine for a good NV5600 out of an 02. I looked through all the G56 to NV5600 swap threads and couldnt seem to find anything on the 2nd gen NV5600s if they will work, but I'm guessing they are the same? Only thing I've heard is different is the shifters, but heard some guys like the 2nd gen shifters in the 3rd gens? He said he has a starter spacer as he had a dual disc in so now I just need to find out for sure if my current clutch will work with the nv5600 or not.

Found a local diesel shop also has a Gear vendors for a an 04 nv5600 with drivelines for decent price, so I thought about going with that as well. Would be nice for cruising/mileage especially with my 4.10s. Just not sure if they hold up to higher power or pulling? Haven't ever looked into them til now.
 
The gear vendors will not take the stress of pulling. You will regret that money spent.

96 3500 5x018 7mm dvs 62fmw
 
Go NV5600 and keep it 2-3 quarts over full and don't look back.
The NV5600 does shift harder (gets WORSE with multi-disc clutches) between gears than the G56, but at least you won't be fixing it every few times you lay into it.

If you don't mind losing a gear, the BEST choice out there for durability, in an easy MANUAL swap, is the NV4500, which has a ton of aftermarket support to make it durable.

Otherwise the 48RE has proven time and again to be the best stock-based auto to build.

I've never understood why Dodge (as well as other manufacturers) feels they need to up horsepower/torque, yet want to cheap out on transmissions in the Cummins trucks.

Seems to me that when they went to 325hp in 2004.5, very shortly after (2005.5), they went to a 300 horsepower G-56 transmission. :bang

Mark.
 
I believe the only differences have been mentioned already. I haven't compared them side by side but from what I understand, the cases are identical aside from the G56 being aluminum and the NV being cast iron.
 
I didn't think they shared any parts so much. It was a long time ago I had read that the cases were the same. Could've likely been just speculation then. Thanks for clearing it up.
 
To the OP, I was almost in your boat.

Bought the truck brand new with the G56. Installed the SBC 3600 DD at 37k miles and then rebuilt the G56 the first time at 77k miles... Did a ton of motor work last year putting me above 700 RWHP. Unfortunately I was only able to enjoy it on the dyno as I was afraid to enjoy it on the street with the fear of destroying the G56.

I found a guy about 2 hours away from me and we swapped transmissions, t-cases and front driveshafts. Rear driveshafts would've been included had we had the same wheelbases (QCSB versus QCLB). He also threw in $1500 on top as due to my having the clutch and G56's being worth more than the 48RE at the salvage yard.

I would recommend just going to a built 48RE. Firepunk has a towing trans for $3000. And you can get their Anteater controller for another $1000. I would budget another $1500 for shifter, console, cooler, plumbing, fan and misc.

I enjoy a row boat as much as the next guy, but it's just not worth it if you really wish to enjoy your truck at any build level.
 
Well finally got a second and my curiosity level gave in, decided, o pull the PTO covers off of the g56. 4th gear is GONE, only had 1 tooth left on the main shaft gear and the countershaft gear is all peeled too. 4th would spin freely til it hit that last tooth so with the help of a torch and air hammer I got it hammered out enough so it would spin all the way free. Fished all the chunks of gear teeth out of the bottom with a flexible magnet and got a cupful of carnage. Brake cleaned the housing the best I could and threw the covers back on and dumped the oil back on.

Still makes a small clunky here and there but I at least know what it is now. I just converted it to a 5 speed for the moment til I get all my nv5600 stuff together.

There is a dyno this saturday after UCC, and now I'm debating on given er hell...:pop:
I just don't want to blow the trans/case with close spectators...
 
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