Bypass the fuel heater?

Big Smoky

Big Smoky

Former 35er Electrician!
Joined
Jun 25, 2007
Messages
694
I know the fuel heater on the 12v's can be a source of leaks and issues, so why not bypass it using a good filter such as a FASS and just run it straight from the pump to the IP, or from the factory LP to the IP? Just something I've been thinking about.
 
It is easy to get rid of the fuel heater. The bottom screws off of it, which has the mesh filter in it. Then there is an allen bolt in the middle at the bottom holding the heater part of it on. Take the allen bolt out, remove the middle section, and the bottom part with the filter will screw right back on and seal up just like it did before, except you have eliminated the heater. That is how i have mine done with no problems

Eric
 
I just plumbed around it by putting a new fitting on the inlet of the lift pump and some new hose.
 
That's exactly what I was thinking of doing. Plus, my line from the LP to the heater is cracked all to hell anyways.
 
Has anyone had problems with getting rid of the heater and bolting the lp straight to the block?
 
You have to keep the spacer between the lift pump and block, but other than that, it shouldnt hurt anything.

Eric
 
Any reason not to do this living in the Maryland/Delaware area which gets -5 on the coldest chilliest days of winter. Usually no colder then 25 on average during winter.
 
I think you would be fine. Think about it this way. It is not aiding startup AT ALL. The injection line, injection pump, fuel filter, and fuel lines from filter to the Injection pump and lift pump are all full of diesel. All that fuel has to go through before any heated diesel gets to the motor. They say at least a quart. Plus they say it hardly heats the fuel anyways. I took mine off, and havent been through a winter without it yet, but i dont think it will have any effect really.

Eric
 
If you don't want to look at it anymore, you can remove the lift pump, and take the spacer/heater mount and cut the angled heater mount off of the spacer/heater mount assembly, then reinstall the spacer.
 
Mine had the fuseable link burnt out and I never had a problem when it got down to -20F.
 
Ok, i'm sold. I like the idea of bypassing the whole system all together. What fittings are needed to get around the fuel heater all together. I want to go from my lift pump to the canister. Thanks!
 
Well, my PCM has been burned out for the last two winters now (been below -30 a couple of times) and I haven't seen the need to hotwire the fuel heater yet... The grid heaters, of course, are on a toggle in the cab, but it starts pretty good without the fuel heater. I plan on completely bypassing it myself when I plumb in my Holley Blue. Just working on finding a way to plumb things with something bigger than the 5/16 stock lines :bang
 
bgilbert said:
If you don't want to look at it anymore, you can remove the lift pump, and take the spacer/heater mount and cut the angled heater mount off of the spacer/heater mount assembly, then reinstall the spacer.
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This is what i did as well, just cut it off with a saw zaw and then you can run a 1/2" hose right to the same fitting the old heater used to feed.
 
Need a little help, I think this might be the reason my 12V won't start. Does anyone have a picture with the location of the heater? Sorry I haven't climbed under the hood any on this truck.
 
wideopen said:
Need a little help, I think this might be the reason my 12V won't start. Does anyone have a picture with the location of the heater? Sorry I haven't climbed under the hood any on this truck.
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take the nut off the bottom of the housing Phil, I cant remember what size, and you need a 8mm Allen too. Sometimes the screen gets clogged
 
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