Cam degree wheels

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seeker1056

gear head
Joined
Aug 3, 2006
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ok so i have my new cam, and a degree wheel

I know how to degree a cam and thats not the issue

How the bleep does one attach a standard degree wheel to a cummins Fluidampr balancer????????

first thought comes to mind is to silicone it, but that doesnt guarrantee being centred which would cause reading issues

making some kind of hub to bolt to the end of the crank is beyond my shops tools

HELP!!!

thanx
Ken
 
Is there a reason why the damper needs to stay on there?

When I did mine I didn't have the damper on there. The degree wheel fit perfectly over the snout on the crankshaft so all I had to do was drill a new hole to put a bolt through and into the damper mounting flange on the crank to secure it. It worked great.
 
how did you know where to make tdc by doin it without the balancer for a startin point?

yess - I know about the wire pointer n rotatin against a bump stop - but how would you measure between the rotation spots to get the intitial start point so you can find the ICL

did you just pick an arbritray spot on the wheel to find tdc, then rotate the wheel to the pointer? then start degreein?
 
put the wheel on the crank when the head is off and use a dial indicator to find true tdc

if the head is already on either take it off or make a fixture so you can put the indicator down the inj bore

that would be the only accurate way to do it

if the wheel is not dead on tdc your cam wont be where you think it is
 
seeker1056 said:
how did you know where to make tdc by doin it without the balancer for a startin point?

yess - I know about the wire pointer n rotatin against a bump stop - but how would you measure between the rotation spots to get the intitial start point so you can find the ICL

did you just pick an arbritray spot on the wheel to find tdc, then rotate the wheel to the pointer? then start degreein?
Click to expand...

You have to find TDC anyway, so I just marked the degree wheel for where actual TDC was and went from there.

If the head is off you can use a piston stop or a dial indicator or if the head is on you can use the drop valve method or maybe stick a dial indicator down the injector hole. I just used the drop valve method.
 
DTanklage said:
if the cam is not where it is supposed to be what good is that?
Click to expand...


You should be able to still drop the valve and use it as a piston stop regardless of whether or not the cam is in the motor. You would just have to put something under the rocker to simulate the pushrod being there.
 
I used four heavy magnets to hold it to the front of the balancer and marked it to be sure it hadn't moved.
 
well head is off, dial indicator is on the lifter, tdc has been determined using the stop bolt method, - just needed to know how people were putting the degree wheel onto the crank/balancer

so far the direct on the crank suggestion seems like the only option for me unless someone else has a better option.

so I will use the balancer to mark where the pointer should be for tdc, then pull the balancer off and install the degree wheel so "0" is lined up with the previously installed pointer?
 
seeker1056 said:
so I will use the balancer to mark where the pointer should be for tdc, then pull the balancer off and install the degree wheel so "0" is lined up with the previously installed pointer?
Click to expand...

no

that is what i was saying - you have to have the wheel on the crank first, then zero it using a stop or the preferred indicator

when centerlining a camshaft the wheel has to be perfectly zero'd
 
i have never been able to zero a crank remove the wheel and reinstall it w/o the crank moving

iow had to throw an indicator back on it and move the pointer accordingly
 
Here is a pic that hopefully will give you an idea of what a shop that builds quite a few motors do. Im not sure though if the balancer is behind the degree wheel though...Im thinking it isn't.

Ryan
 

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i am thinkin the dampener is back there cuz there are 4 bolts holding the wheel on...instead of 1
 
well now dodge happens to make a kit of five offset keys in 1 degree increments for $50

Ryan - that pic would appear to be usin an adapter over the balancer - look real close and see the small screws holdin it in four places

was hopin to avoid that
 
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That looks like the fixture for drilling the extra roll pins in from Fluidampr.
 
I used an old aluminum fan spacer off my Pontiac to bolt to the crank. I drilled and tapped a hole where the fan would have attached. Works easy and allows for easy clocking of the degree wheel.

Dave
 
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