Cam gear removal help.

Light It Up

Light It Up

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Oct 22, 2008
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Does the cam have to come out in order to get the cam gear off. I thought you could just unbolt the cam gear? Also i see in pics that guys use dowl sticks in place of push rods? What is this for and what size of dowls do i need to get? I imagine before a cam comes out you have to do this? Thanks guys
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.5" dowels it holds the lifters up. Why are you pulling the cam gear off? Cam gear should be removed in a press. When you install it you can preheat the gear in an oven, and then press it on.
 
Im p-pumping my truck. In order to get the housing off you have to pull the cam gear right? Also when i put the .5 dowels i just want to press the dowels in to the lifter so that there lodged then put a rubber band around each pair and let them sit there or do i need lift them up so there out of the way?
 
Yeah just put a lil bit of a taper on the end so they go in easier without spliting. And you can tap them in with a dead blow hammer so their seating in the tappet well. and then hold each pair up with strong rubber bands or zip ties.
 
Ok but how do you get them to stay up? Is it the pressure from the zip ties that squeze both dowel against the head? Sorry for acting dumb I just wana make sure i do this right. First time ive done this. Thanks for the help
 
Black Pwrstroke said:
Ok but how do you get them to stay up? Is it the pressure from the zip ties that squeze both dowel against the head? Sorry for acting dumb I just wana make sure i do this right. First time ive done this. Thanks for the help
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You are right. It's real easy to do. Also, remember to take out the cowl plugs so you can get the back pushrods out and dowels in.
 
slim, but it can happen.. as long as you keep them cocked inside the bore you'll be fine.. worst case scenario it goes into the pan, LOL
 
If you are going to do a Ppump conversion, what I do is remove the side cover . This will allow to access the followers , next you can take a magnet and pull up on the followers and and use a 3/8th clamp and tighten the clamp to hold them up.

Looks like this.

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Ok got the cover off. Thats a great idea MAXTORQ. I can get rid of the stock 24v lift pump right? Im running the airdog with a 40lb spring. If i dnt itl be in the way wont it?
 
I decided to run the stock cam and run a 4k gov spring with 140lb hamilton springs with an 0-ringed head. Sound like a good idea? I can run stock pushrods right? Im just tryin to save a lil money. Either that or run the billet big stick cam from Peaks. AHHHHHH i cant make up my mind
 
Yes but I want to caution you . The bracket that holds the old stock pump has to stay or you can buy a Big Block chevy fuel pump block off plate to cover the old 12 v manual mounting hole. There must be a plate there or it will blow oil all over the place. Normally as well you can save the gasket as it usually sticks to the block.

What I normally do it cut the old bracket down , this will also allow you to mount the ECM in the back three adaptor bolts .

The pic below , the motor is upside down but you can get the jist of what I'm talikng about.

cetanetrucks057.jpg
 
Why not run one of Hamiltons Cams as well. 140lb springs I would run a good set of pushtubes as well.
 
The 140# springs are for competition only. Typically most people run them when they are going to go with longer valves so that they can take advantage of higher lift. When they use longer valves this gets the seat pressure closer to the #110.

Peak diesel uses our grind but they have their own cast billets as of now. The lobes they use are slightly narrower than ours. In the next week or so they will have the new wider lobe that we use.
 
I just got a quote from a machine shop of $1400 to rebuild my head also o-ringed job. How does that sound. Thats with hamilton springs
 
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