cam install

R

R.C.inc.

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Oct 28, 2008
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How hard is it?
Any info is great. What should be expected with an upgraded cam. Does the timing then need to be changed?
96 12v 18* timing.
 
Judging by his timing question 12v. I'm thinking the timing would need to be at least checked if the pump gear has to come off. Not sure if the cam can be removed without having to remove the pump gear. I've been considering the swap myself, still going back and forth.
 
When I did my cam I didn't have to remove my pump gear but I've got a VP.
 
I have my motor out of the truck. And finally took the cam out today with some help.. It really is pretty simple. With the front end off of the truck. You shouldn't have any issues..
 
It all depend with what cam you decide to go with. Has far as timing goes I dont think that you will have to change the timing. when you pull the cam will line it up dot to dot. So I dont think that the you should have a problem with timing unless you have to degree the cam in.
 
no you dont need to take the pump gear off, they way the teeth are angled allows you "twist is the cam out" but make sure that you mark the teeth(yes i know it is not a keyed pump) but this mark is so that you get the gear on the pump lined backup with the cam gear, and timing will be right. this is only if you do not remove the pump gear!

wes
 
How are the lifters held up to pull cam out so they don't fall down. Thanks Eddie
 
you will use 1/2" thick wooden dowels with a tapered end, you remove the pushrods and tap them into the lifters to hold them up

the pain is if you replace the lifters, that was the hardest part for me

also do some seaching, ive found all I needed to know to do my cam swap by searching here and CF
 
With 1/2" wooden dowls that you can buy from Lowe's/home depot. Just cut them a lil bit longer then your push rods. The back ones will need to be trimed just short enough to fanugle them in there. And it's best to turn the truck off with the winshield wipers in the up position so the linkage isn't in the way as much when the end of the dowls have to go up under the 2 pluged holes in the cowl.
 
How much easier is swapping the lifters when removing the tappet cover? Just looking for general opinions or experience from those who've done the swap.
 
NickTF said:
How much easier is swapping the lifters when removing the tappet cover? Just looking for general opinions or experience from those who've done the swap.
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Lifters are a PITA anyway, unless of coarse it's upside down on an engine stand.
 
Also, when fishing the tappets up into the lifter bore how are you guys going about doing this? Do you fish it up with the magnet as best you can, then rotate the pvc pipe over so the closed end (outside diameter end) is against the lifter so you can than push the dowel into the tappet to retain it?
 
NickTF said:
Also, when fishing the tappets up into the lifter bore how are you guys going about doing this? Do you fish it up with the magnet as best you can, then rotate the pvc pipe over so the closed end (outside diameter end) is against the lifter so you can than push the dowel into the tappet to retain it?
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Yeah you got the right idea, but fishing the rubber plug down into the hole and back up is more difficult than it sounds. Jacking the back of the truck up to get the engine perfectly level is a must as the plug on a string is like a plumb bob. Also have a 8mm flex camera to see down in the hole is a big time saver.
 
remove tappit cover works best for 2 reasons. 1 you can see the dowl rods go in the tappit. 2 when putting the string down you can guide it in.i diddnt do it when i did mine. i took a coat hanger wire and made a real small u shape. and then took the rubber plug and pulled it up and it helped guide it down the hole. and if i would of removed the tappet cover i would of seen if the rod was broken off.now i have to remove the oil pan because the dowl rods were from a friend .and he cant remember if it was chunked out or not so now i am searching for a small pc of wood that may not even be there.the tappets are tricky to do.#1 was hard to get in.snug fit.i am glad it wasent 6
 
I wouldn't worry about the tappets too much, mine with 220,000 miles look great. The cam swap is not hard just time consuming but is definately worth it!
 
dzlfarmboy said:
Yeah you got the right idea, but fishing the rubber plug down into the hole and back up is more difficult than it sounds. Jacking the back of the truck up to get the engine perfectly level is a must as the plug on a string is like a plumb bob. Also have a 8mm flex camera to see down in the hole is a big time saver.
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yes, jackin the rear end up is a must, wish i had one of them camera thingeys

my tappits looked fine on my truck with 338,000 miles. but I had already gotten CR tappits so I did them anyways
 
Think Zach recommends the 24v Tappets with his 181/210 cam though:(
 
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