Changing from ARP 2000's to 625's---how to?

C

cumminsX

Can't make up my mind
Joined
Apr 7, 2008
Messages
447
I am thinking of changing to the 625's to get more clamping load on the HG. Right now I have the 2000's torqued to 135lbs and I was leaking a little coolant from the back. I did another retorque and the leak has stopped but for how long. I was wondering if I do change studs can I just pull one at a time and do it just like a retorque? Also what would be the best sequence to bring them up to 160lbs? Thanks.
 
I have heard that some do but I have seen a few snap at 140 so I don't know if I want to risk it.
 
Do you think that if I can get it clamped harder that I will be ok without pulling the head and replacing the gasket? I am still getting a drip about every 30 seconds, there is no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil so I think it is just getting out one of the water jackets. The head is fire ringed and I am using a .020 over head gasket.
 
Biggest trick is to do it slowly and in stages,, we went up in stages of 5 pounds,,, starting at 120. So we brought them all up to 120, then backed them off to loose, and brought them up to 125 and so on... make sure to use lots of lube every retork too.
 
I am still not sure what I am going to do, it may not be leaking now. I had oil leaking out of the valve cover because the gasket fell out on the back when I was reinstalling it after the retorque and now that I have the oil stopped I can't see any drips back there. I haven't gone out and made 70-80 psi of boost yet either so I think I am going to do something before it lets go on me.
 
one of the other reasons that guys are having issues with them snapping is that they dont bottom tap, and also some guys forget to make sure that it isnt bottoming out in the hole
 
Well it is still leaking so i guess i am going to have to do something. If I get the 625's do I start with the left front and just change them out in the same order as a retorque, down the line?
 
morkable said:
one of the other reasons that guys are having issues with them snapping is that they dont bottom tap, and also some guys forget to make sure that it isnt bottoming out in the hole
Click to expand...

Whats wrong with screwing the stud all the way to the bottom? They designed studs to tighten them down into the block then the nut to hold the head down. If the studs shouldnt be tighten down into the block why do they design them that way otherwise you could just hand tighten them to the bottom.
 
You need to pull the head, check the head and block for flatness. Correct the head and/or block if needed (More than likely 1 or the other will need resurfaced). Replace gasket and torque to ARP's specs. With the boost numbers your seeing it's gonna keep happening even if you change the gasket and something is not flat.
 
Both were just surfaced, this is a new build, only maybe 300 miles. I am thinking that I just don't have enough crush on the HG with the fire rings but I don't know at this point.
 
Trust me, just because it is new does not mean it's right. Double check and repair if needed. I redid an engine 2 times because of poor machine work. Pay attention to the depth of the fire ring grooves. More than .003 off will cause endless issues.
 
sounds like you gots a problem there adam.......sucks on a new build. i would pull the head to see whats going on.
 
ring groves were all within .0015 of each other, I checked and double checked the ring grooves because I know how close they need to be. If the rings were not sealed I would be having much more than a little drip right?
 
SINNER said:
Trust me, just because it is new does not mean it's right. Double check and repair if needed. I redid an engine 2 times because of poor machine work. Pay attention to the depth of the fire ring grooves. More than .003 off will cause endless issues.
Click to expand...



i agree.
 
kjpcummins said:
Whats wrong with screwing the stud all the way to the bottom? They designed studs to tighten them down into the block then the nut to hold the head down. If the studs shouldnt be tighten down into the block why do they design them that way otherwise you could just hand tighten them to the bottom.
Click to expand...

If the stud can bottom in the hole, you can get a screw jack effect.

The friction between the nut and stud can put a fair bit of torque on the stud, so not only your holding the clamp load, but now have this "screw jack load" from friction wanting to turn the stud in more when it has no were to go but jack the threads out the block.


cumminsX said:
Well it is still leaking so i guess i am going to have to do something. If I get the 625's do I start with the left front and just change them out in the same order as a retorque, down the line?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't bet the farm that the new studs will stop the leak. Worth a try I suppose and will be in better standing next time even if you do have to pull th head.
 
I wouldn't bet the farm that the new studs will stop the leak. Worth a try I suppose and will be in better standing next time even if you do have to pull th head.[/QUOTE]

I think that this is where I will start because either way I am going to buy the new 625's. If it works then great, if not then I pull the head off, check everything out, get a new gasket and i'll already have the studs. I am going to see if I can find a set of 625's in the morning and give it a try.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top