Changing U-joints

BgBlDodge

BgBlDodge

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May 7, 2007
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I'm gonna try and tackle this this weekend. I don't have a press or access to a press. What's the easiest way to do this?
 
i dont know about putting them in but to get them out just do alot of boosted launches til they break!
 
With my luck my shafts would break before the u-joints. LOL Speaking of which, I should have a billet input sitting on my porch when I get home.

cahammer, just how big of a hammer and socket?
 
BgBlDodge said:
With my luck my shafts would break before the u-joints. LOL Speaking of which, I should have a billet input sitting on my porch when I get home.

cahammer, just how big of a hammer and socket?
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i always used one socket big enough for the end cap to fit in on the bottom, and the socket on top should be the same size as the end cap so that it just fits in the hole in the yoke. that way you can drive it thru and it falls into the bottom socket.
 
You can use a ball peen hammer to knock them out.
 
oreillys/napa/autozone will rent a balljoint/ujoint press. Best way to do it IMO. Hammering on it can weaken the yoke which is bad news.
 
I drive them out with a hammer and socket, and then press them back in using my vice. The press from the parts stores as mentioned above works pretty well also, a buddy of mine went that route and it made it pretty easy.
 
Yeah, I think I'm gonna rent the press since I don't have a vice to press them back in. Dad left it at the old house when we moved.
 
The press is worth it, just be careful, I have seen one ear get bent pretty badly when the cup was not "free" in the ear. If these are the stock joints be careful, they use nylon IIRC to lock the cup in and the best way to get them to move is with heat. A small propane torch will do the trick just fine. So if you get to pressing on them, and there is no movement, add heat before you screw up something.

On the reinstall, once both sides are in check the freedom of movement, there should be no binding at any point. If it does bind take a long punch and a hammer and tap the end of the ears from the inside with the ear unsupported to relieve tension on the joint.

Hope this helps, PM me for a # if you need any help/advice.
 
Maybe that's why we couldn't get my buddy's out. If mine doesn't move I'll do the same thing to it that I did to his, bust out the angle grinder and cut the puppy in half.
 
It's better to apply heat and soften up the plastic lock, you run lots less chance of bending the ear in.
 
I just cut 'em up with a torch and tap all 4 caps out$.02 Short of boosted launches thats the fastest way I know to get them out. They do take alittle more heat to cut than your run of the mill steel though...
 
Well the trucks at the shop because the new power steering pump won't turn the wheels or apply the brakes so I'm gonna have them do the u-joints while it's in there. Thanks for the help though.
 
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