Charge pipe issues

[black03cummins]

I keep blowing the charge pipe off going from the secondary to the primary (63/S475). I have tried to using hairspray and a clamp, nope, hairspray and 2 clamps, nope. Whenever I am pulling and I get over 50 psi, it blows off. Now, I am just tired of reconnecting that boot on the side of the road. I think my only option is have the charge pipe modified to be v-clamps. I have checked with a couple local performance shops and they said they think they could do it. Anyone have some ideas that I could try or is v-band my only option? Or, does anyone know of a person/shop that has experience doing this?

Here is a picture, I keep blowing the 180 degree boot off and the pipe coming off the secondary is metal.

 

[Snedge]

I think it's the 180* part that's the culprit. You're feeding more air than the rubber angle can handle. I'd suggest a hard pipe set up. I'd bet that the rubber hose is expanding. I'd built a pipe from two exhaust pipe 90's and use rubber at only the connecting sections.

 

[bateman]

edit: see the 180° rubber now. Have read similar to this thread on several occasions. I don’t think there’s much you can do besides hard pipe. Too much area to expand with all that rubber.

 

[bateman]

Not sure if they are still a thing, but few years back I used siliconeintakes.com and they had 180° aluminum charge piping in various diameters. Their rubber couplers weren’t too great but the metal parts were.

 

[PSUCE]

I think it's the 180* part that's the culprit. You're feeding more air than the rubber angle can handle. I'd suggest a hard pipe set up. I'd bet that the rubber hose is expanding. I'd built a pipe from two exhaust pipe 90's and use rubber at only the connecting sections.

I agree with this. I have used the 180 mandrel bends from Summit, check if the measurements work out for you.

Also if the metal pipe from the secondary is smooth with nothing to help hold the boot, you could find someone to roll a bead on it or weld a bead on it. That helps keep to from sliding off too

 

[Snedge]

Yup, that'll do it. What's happening is your rubber elbow is swelling under pressure, and at the same time it expands, it shortens, thus yanking it right out from under the clamp. No amount of hair spray and clamping can buck physics.

 

[black03cummins]

That is what I have concluded, but I don't really have a business that has experience welding on compressor housings to weld a flange on it. Do you think I would be ok to replace the 180 degree boot with a metal one and just have clamps and boot where it connects to the compressor housing and the charge pipe off the primary? Or, should that all be one piece?

 

[Signature600]

That is what I have concluded, but I don't really have a business that has experience welding on compressor housings to weld a flange on it. Do you think I would be ok to replace the 180 degree boot with a metal one and just have clamps and boot where it connects to the compressor housing and the charge pipe off the primary? Or, should that all be one piece?

Yes, a 180 bend with metal to a rubber boot about 3" long at the compressor housing will work great. MANY twin sets have been done like that.

The OEM I sell combines for tried that 180 rubber boot stuff, and it didn't work until they put rings on the boot to keep it from expanding. I fixed about 25 combines with a welded up pipe and a couple straight boots for about 4 years before they finally got them to hold. They weren't real happy I wouldn't share my fix either, but all the field guys kept laughing when I told them "you make millions, I make **** work, you figure out your own messes!!"

Chris