Clutch adjustment
- Thread starter chrisc
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2007
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- 32,083
Negative. None. You can buy a clutch upgrade from Valair or SouthBend. Those kits have an adjustment where the cable attaches to the pedal. All it will do is move your pedal up....like on mine. My short legged ass can't hardly reach the floor without the seat under the wheel. 
The factory hydros are all one piece, factory seals units. They come out in one piece and the new ones go in just the same. Takes about 30 minutes to do if you've done a couple of them.
Hope this helps.
The factory hydros are all one piece, factory seals units. They come out in one piece and the new ones go in just the same. Takes about 30 minutes to do if you've done a couple of them.
Hope this helps.
4x4 Cody
New member
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2010
- Messages
- 31
There's one more option. I have a 5-speed with the valair upgraded slave cylinder unit. its the adjustable one mentioned above, $85ish BUT
Prior to this I had a stock slave cylinder assembly (one piece)
Not sure you want to do this, but it WILL get you out of a bind.
follow your slave cylinder cable/line to where it bolts to the transmission. should only be nuts over 2 studs (6 speed should'nt be much diff)
take those 2 nuts off and pull the rod out of the bell housing. (DO NOT PUSH THE CLUTH PEDAL) the steel rod should pop out of the line.
now you have a rod that looks like a screwdriver shank in your hands with a plastic cap on each end. take one cap off and extend the rod up to 1/4 inch. I welded small beads end to end to extend it. you can probably find a little pipe that slides over the rod with a cap on it to extend it....
in simple terms, make that rod 1/4" longer and put it back in. your pedal will raise, but if you make it too long your clutch will slip and not have enough pressure to grab the pressure plate and flywheel.
thats the only other option other than buying an adjustable one. But it will only get you on your feet temporarily til you do buy the adjustable one.
Prior to this I had a stock slave cylinder assembly (one piece)
Not sure you want to do this, but it WILL get you out of a bind.
follow your slave cylinder cable/line to where it bolts to the transmission. should only be nuts over 2 studs (6 speed should'nt be much diff)
take those 2 nuts off and pull the rod out of the bell housing. (DO NOT PUSH THE CLUTH PEDAL) the steel rod should pop out of the line.
now you have a rod that looks like a screwdriver shank in your hands with a plastic cap on each end. take one cap off and extend the rod up to 1/4 inch. I welded small beads end to end to extend it. you can probably find a little pipe that slides over the rod with a cap on it to extend it....
in simple terms, make that rod 1/4" longer and put it back in. your pedal will raise, but if you make it too long your clutch will slip and not have enough pressure to grab the pressure plate and flywheel.
thats the only other option other than buying an adjustable one. But it will only get you on your feet temporarily til you do buy the adjustable one.
i replaced my factory clutch disk with a button clutch disc and the disc is thinner than factry hence making my pedal rengage about half way down instead odf at the top. not a big deal, but just thought if there was a simple way to get it to the top id try it.
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2007
- Messages
- 32,083
I'd be happy with half way down. My factory unit would engage the moment the pedal came off the floor mat. The adjustable version moved it up an inch or two so it is just right now. I'd hate it engaging at the top. Reminds me of the old wheat truck.