clutch rod adjustments

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firemn260

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Feb 20, 2015
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I'm happy to say I figured out why the rod on the master cylinder wasn't lining up with the stud on the clutch pedal. Apparently my truck has the bolt in bracket that the ms locks to even though my truck is a 96.

I ordered the SB hydros for a 98-02 and the bracket that came with it was differant than the one that was already on the truck. Once I bolted the new bracket it the rod lined up perfect with the stud. That was all confusing but I'm glad I just have it strait now.

Anyway my question now is how far is it OK to lengthen the clutch rod? I was having a issue were it seems like the clutch wasn't completely disengaging so I adjusted it out. The clutch pedal is higher then the brake pedal now and it seems to be a little better but my trans is still very tuff to get in gear and shift.

Also having a issue with the little black clip keeps popping off causing the rod to fall off the pedal stud. I bought a small snap ring so I will see how that goes.
 
Dual disc clutches tend to be significantly more difficult to get into gears. Namely 2nd and reverse for my past experiences. When I had my 3850 south bend I found it easier to get into 2nd and reverse if I dropped it into 4th first and then found 2nd and reverse.
 
I had the same issue when when I bought my truck with a brand new DD Southbend clutch. I built my own pushrod to the clutch fork 1" longer and adjusted the pedal all the way out and it still felt like that. After driving it for a while it's gotten quite a bit better, but a big clutch doesn't slip like a single disk. So I've learned to just drive with a slow clutch.
 
zfaylor said:
Dual disc clutches tend to be significantly more difficult to get into gears. Namely 2nd and reverse for my past experiences. When I had my 3850 south bend I found it easier to get into 2nd and reverse if I dropped it into 4th first and then found 2nd and reverse.
Click to expand...

^This is exactly what I do.
 
Well that makes me feel better that it's just the nature of a dd.

I'm just going to crank the clutch rod all the way out but I was figuring the slave cylinder only has so much travel.

I got a work sheet that came with the truck for when the trans was overhauled. All new sycros, updated 5th gear lock nut and transzilla fluid put back in. I'm not sure what oil this is but it was over 100 dollars worth. Andy have experience with this gear oil? Is it the right oil?
Thank you
 
You have to use GM sychomesh-or something with the equivalent additives. I don't know what those additives are, I don't know of any other fluid with it in, and I don't know why our trans needs those additives. I'm too poor to try different fluids to measure heat and longevity to failure, so I'm sticking with what everyone says on this one. That's all I've got...
 
Running the rod too tight will burn up your clutch. You need to make sure its engaging about half way out. When the clutch wears, the levers will comeback towards the transmission and your engagement point will get higher, then drop it down a bit.
 
On your slave cylinder, did you remove that black spacer?

And from what I've seen, the 4500s need the GL4 rated oil.
 
weazel said:
On your slave cylinder, did you remove that black spacer?

And from what I've seen, the 4500s need the GL4 rated oil.
Click to expand...

I didn't notice a spacer on it but thanks I will check.

I plan on changing the oil and see if that makes any differance.
 
Valair1 said:
Running the rod too tight will burn up your clutch. You need to make sure its engaging about half way out. When the clutch wears, the levers will comeback towards the transmission and your engagement point will get higher, then drop it down a bit.
Click to expand...

I built my pushrod to be in place but not put any pressure on the clutch fork. Or are you talking about the pedal adjusting rod?
 
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