Clutch rod modifications/hard shifting double disk woes...

12VEG

Veggie Burner
Joined
Oct 5, 2009
Messages
30
Sooooooo I've had this SDD3250 on here for over a year now, replaced hydraulics with Valair's "heavy duty" set at the same time, replaced the pivot ball, etc. Everything in there is/was new. It was hard shifting from day one, and yes, I know dd's are slower to engage/disengage, increased rotational mass, etc. But man, it's hardly gotten any better, responding to the ether advice of, "just give it some time."

I know that there was talk floating around at some point of someone adapting 24V hydros into a 12V for the convenience of adjustability (and forgoing the NSS), does anyone know anything about that?

My dad once had to modify the master cyl. pushrod on a Ford F350 we recently got rid of (the only thing aside from lighting in on fire and rolling it down a steep cliff, that one ought ever do with a Ford) with a length of threaded rod/turnbuckle/something or other to add another amount of travel to get the clutch working properly. And it worked.

I have this hunch that part of my issue MAY lie with the fact that at some point in the history of my truck someone put an NV4500 from a GM truck in there, reason being, it has a straight shifter with a GM tag below the shift boot. They ought to all be the same, but maybe there's some odd difference in tolerances or design that has an effect on the slave cylinder acting on the whole rest of the clutch assembly such that, adapted to a Cummins, there's more space in between the flywheel and tranny than usual. I dunno. All dire speculation.

Anyway, has anyone anywhere in any way at any time modified, jury rigged, or otherwise appropriated any sort of adjustable hydro system to compensate for hard shifting dd's?

It does seem to engage in roughly the right place, though maybe a little high. Being a dual friction medium, when it's cold I can feel the organic facings engage in roughly the right place, but when it's gotten hot, I don't really feel the slip of the organic facings, only the unforgiving 1/2" or so of clutch travel afforded by the feramic facings.

Well, I'm open to suggestions, thanks for your input.
 
I've been running my SB/DD for a couple of years now and am used to it. Go with a clutch that will handle the power with an attitude or go back to stock and change it regularly.
 
Stick the stock hydro and fork on it. Run the the stock pivot ball without the factory washer. My 3250 works perfectly with stock hydros.
 
Stick the stock hydro and fork on it. Run the the stock pivot ball without the factory washer. My 3250 works perfectly with stock hydros.

I was wondering about the necessity to remove the washer behind the pivot ball, when I replaced the clutch I replaced the pivot ball (omitted the washer), fork, hydros, everything. My thought was that having the washer behind the pivot ball would actually help the situation as the pivot would be 1/6"-3/32" or whatever the washer thickness is, closer to the clutch, thereby engaging a longer travel.

Why would using stock hydros vs. HD valair's do me any good?
 
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