Cracked block fix

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fearthedeere6.7

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Sep 15, 2008
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Im looking at a 12v that has a small crack under the freeze plugs passanger side. I have a motor that i can swap, but i figured id give welding it up a shot first. Anyone have any tips or tricks for me to try? I plan on laying some JB weld down after i mig it up.
 
why would you need jb weld after its been mig welded?

would you lay mortar over concrete?
 
Good luck with the mig welding working, it'll probably weld the crack and then create another one. If you do weld it, make sure you preheat, weld and let it cool slowly as possible. You'd probably be better off to drill each end of the crack, slighly grind the crack and fill with jb weld
 
I can think up lots of 'duct tape and bubble gum ideas', but nothing Id trust in the long term.
youd need to pre-heat the block to weld it right, since the weld will expand and contract differently from the block and cause stress all over again.
lock-n-stitch like the 53 block guys?
 
kawi600 said:
I can think up lots of 'duct tape and bubble gum ideas', but nothing Id trust in the long term.
youd need to pre-heat the block to weld it right, since the weld will expand and contract differently from the block and cause stress all over again.
lock-n-stitch like the 53 block guys?
Click to expand...

Never heard of that, i looked it up i think thats the way to go for now. like i said i have a motor waiting that im gonna reseal, but id like to cam it while its out of the truck. Im just looking for a short term fix. so i can at least use the truck. while i build the other motor.
 
Hope that works out for ya. A short term fix, Id drill the end of the crack so it doesnt spread, and put a bolt through it with washers and RTV on both sides. Assuming its flat..
 
heat it and weld it with silcon bronze rod then wrap it in insulation to cool it slowly. but like others said it will crack again.
 
If i get the truck im just gonna swap motors, i contacted that locknstitch company. they want 1400 dollars for the supplies to do it. I can get a running motor for that.
 
wow.. thats pretty steep.
and theres a lot of drilling and tapping involved. So if you have a shop do that part its going to be even more.
unfortunately the hack fix is looking more appealing. If you do anything like RTV I would use a fastener with a plate behind to hold stuff in place.
depending on the position and size of the crack, can you enlarge the freeze plug opening and use a larger plug?
Ive patched plenty aluminum engine cases with fiberglass / epoxy from behind, but Im not sure how well that would work on cast iron.
 
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