crank no start

wewille

wewille

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May 22, 2007
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Hi everybody. I have a 2003 ford f-250 with a 6.0l in the shop. It cranks and doesnt start. I have a ford ids and i checked ficm sync, and sync which both switch to yes when cranking. Icp is 1500psi when cranking and an ipr of 50% duty cycle. vpwr is 12v, FICM_LPWR and FICM_VPWR are also 12 volts. FICM_MPWR IS 48-48.5 volts. It has 50 psi fuel pressure, it fills the oil filter bowl with oil. it does have a p2617 code, but FICM_SYNC and SYNC always switch to yes when cranking, and the ids always shows a rpm input. but the tachometer in the dash never reads. So could thet possibly be a problem? Could i have a high pressure oil leak causing the ipr to open way up and meke 1500 psi? Im at a loss here, so any help would be greatly appreciated. Also i disconnected the ICP to check for a biased sensor, but there was no change. It cranks like it wants to start black smoke roles out the tailpipe. Thankyou very much in advance!!
 
ICP bias would be the voltage it reads with the key on and the engine off. NOT disconnected. If the engine is warm and just shut down it should be between .18 and .24 volts. IPR does not OPEN to build pressure. It closes. going to 50% means its trying to boost up and compensate for something. You have the 500psi you need. You have ficm sync. You have ficm logic power. Everything. When you cycle the key forward and the injectors buzz. Does the dash trip out and do wierd ****? If it does, Start disconnecting injectors because you have one that is shorted out and is shutting down the ficm. And it won't tell you that.
 
Also cranking rpm is about 150 rpm, and i found a tsb for the 2617 in conjuction with a p2614 and it says to check for chaffed wires. I checked on intake manifold studs, connector under FICM, and i followed the harness all over and all i found is rub marks on the tape they wrap the harness with. I do have an adapter to apply shop air to the high pressure oil rail on order but wont be here until next week.
 
I will check the if the dash does anything wierd right now, but i never noticed anything before. Thanks very much for the quick reply!!!
 
The dash seems normal, and im waiting for the ids to communicate and ill find out what icp voltage is koeo.
 
If it doesn't buzz out normally. Like you hear it start a buzz but the lights flicker or you he it break up during the buzz. An injector is shorted. This happend to me. EVERYTHING checked out. I had installed a reman'd injector in the truck and it died about a month later. Disconnected it and the truck fired right up.
 
Ok, koeo icp is .1v, but it is cold, since it doesnt start. haha eot, and ect are close to each other at about 60-62 degrees. When i turn the key on, the injectors seem to buzz fine, ill disconnect each injector one at a time and see if it starts? But thats a great piece of info to know and remember!! I bet that was a very tough one to figure out.
 
I only disconnected passenger side injectors individually, and it still hasnt started. Im letting batteries charge and im taking a break haha, and for more information, the injector pulse width is about 2.20 ms.
 
Well its trying to fire the fuel. If its got fuel in the heads it should be pushing it into the cylinder. It sees 500psi, so its firing. If its going to only 50% and not 85% then it doesn't have too big of a leak. If its got FICM sync you are good. FICM vpwr means its got 12 volts. Ficm Lpwr means it has power to the logic circuit. FICM hipwr of 48 volts means its got the voltage to firing the injectors. Its got rpm so it sees the crank turning and sync means the cam is turning. You have everything.
 
I disconnected all 8 individually, still no start. It has the latest reflashes. But it will crank slow until oil pressure gauge comes up, then it will crank normal. Sometimes it will take a few seconds for oil pressure gauge on dash to pop up. Any thoughts? Thank you very much for all the help so far!!
 
You may have a shorted sensor. If VREF is shorted it may not start. Start puilling sensors. Disconnect MAF, MAP, EOT, one at a time and look at your ids and see whats up with the sensor voltages. Does the IDS pass its buzz test? Are you sure the IPR is only going to 50%? Is it not going to 85%?
 
You said you have 50psi of fuel pressure. Is it diesel fuel in the tank? Or does this guy run something different?
 
vref is 5 volts. I have pulled a few sensors, but ill disconnecct all of them one at a time and see what happens. And yep its got desel fuel in it. I ran a buzz test friday, and it past then i ran a koeo self test and got a reacurring p2617 wich makes no sence to me because i have ficm sync and sync. Ill go back to the shop today and check that ipr percentage again. Thank you so much for the help!
 
Ok so you are getting a P2617. This can be set if the motor stalls, but you can't even get it to crank.

Step 1:
Key off.
Disconnect the PCM engine harness connector.
Disconnect the FICM harness connector C.
Key on.
Measure the voltage between FICM harness connector C pin 5 and ground.
Do you have more than .02 volts?

Step 2:
Measure the resistance between FICM harness connector C pin 5 and ground. Is it shorting to ground?

Step3:
Measure the resistance between FICM harness connector C pin 5 and PCM engine harness connector pin 19.
If the wire is good from the pcm to the FICM, Put a PCM in it.
 
Wow i feel stupid after this one!!!!!!!! The A/C compressor locked up. Oh well ya win some, and you lose some.
 
It was a dumb dumb thing i overlooked. I put the amp clamp on it and cranked, it drew 511 amps, which i thought was high, but didnt know any better at the time until i checked an 04 that came in the next day which drew 230 ish. So for future reference for everybody remember to never over look the basics, and 150 rpm is too slow, and 230 amps is about right for cranking current.
 
That's really interesting because the compressor clutch shouldn't be engaged during starting. Besides that, when it was running last, it should have been making some pretty awful sounds. But I guess if the clutch and outboard bearing went out, that could explain that.

Make sure you get the system flushed, and probably replace the orifice and dryer too... little chunks of metal will be floating around in there and will wreck havoc later.
 
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