Dana 80 differential girdle

Smoking S

Smoking S

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Nov 23, 2006
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I am looking for a Dana 80 differential girdle cover, i have seen them a few times but can't seem to find them listed on anybody's website. Can someone point me in the right direction?
 
I would like to know also. I have seen some homemade covers that had a girdle in it.

Are you having trouble spinning bearings on the carrier?
 
I have not had any trouble yet, but it's not far away. Last year imhoff's were having trouble breaking the ring gear and pinion every pull, they put a girdle on it and did not have any trouble the rest of the year.
 
I think alot of the problem is when guys run 3.54 or maybe the 4.10.
That 3.54 pinion is trying to take one heck of a bite of gear. Which I think pushes the ring/carrier, hence torquing on the carrier bearings.
If they were at 4.88 or 5.13 then who knows, might be worthwhile for the girdle. I would be interested in what you find.
 
An old trick we uesed to do to a 14 bolt was to make 2 pieces of 1 inch plates and weld them on eather side of the cover then bore 1 inch holes in each of the plates then use a 1 inch all thread through the holes and tighten the heck out of the nuts. What is happining is when all that touque is aplied to the rearend...it wants to bend the center back and the ring and pinion seperates to the point the pinion climes on the ring gear....and bang shes broke!!!
 
Its a bit hard to see the bracing but this 14 bolt never had an issue, its in a different puller now and no problems.


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Is that the cover with the studs that thread up against the caps? If so the one 60 and 14FF we set up with those covers I was not impressed IIRCC that cover is not a very heafty piece I would take a MAG-HYTEC over those......
Brandon
 
The one I have seen had a completely been welded with 3/8" stock. It was very impressive. They just used the stock cover for the pattern. It was all welded up.
 
Check out the guy on ebay. they have either 1/2 or 3/8 thick diff covers for the d80. then just drill a couple of holes over the area of the end caps and tap them and run a bolt just onto the caps. easy enough. Plus it'll stiffen up the housing too.
 
I took a stock cover and cut the center out then welded in some flat stock over where the caps are and tapped those for bolts and used a jam nut on them then put a Maghytec over the whole thing so that its kind of layered deal. I bolted the girdle on first and set the preload then took the bolts out and bolted the maghytek back over to load it all down, it is freakin solid now. Also got some ARP bolts to put in the caps to replace the grade 8 junk.

I was very pissed that I broke in the finals at Schieds, driver side cap bolts were about 3/8" longer then they were before allowing it to strip the teeth off the r&p. I had the r%p heat treated to take some hardness out and did all of the other stuff with the girdle and I have pretty good confidence in it now.
 
97' CTD said:
Is that the cover with the studs that thread up against the caps?
Brandon
Click to expand...


Yes and the axle tubes are braced. The cover has LPW cast on it, Im pretty sure that stood for Lancaster Powder Works but that was the original makers company and not who makes them now. Guess he sold the molds when he sold out.
 
Timebomb said:
Yes and the axle tubes are braced. The cover has LPW cast on it, Im pretty sure that stood for Lancaster Powder Works but that was the original makers company and not who makes them now. Guess he sold the molds when he sold out.
Click to expand...

Thanks those are the ones I thought they was.
Brandon
 
Will this also cause axles to break ?? I sheared both wright in side the bearings luckily I took the locker apart and beat them out BTW what TQ is the bearing cap on the carrier
 
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