DD Jammer turbo- rebuild or replace?

VMacKenzie

Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2007
Messages
625
The impeller on my Diesel Dynamics turbo is getting sloppy. Hasn't chewed anything up yet and I parked the truck tonight. I like this turbo and will probably get it fixed, I don't think the impeller has made much contact with the housing wall yet.

I don't know much about this turbo, supposedly has a 14cm exh housing & worked over HX40 compressor. Diesel Dynamics had spotty results with this turbo, some were good and a batch of them were terrible and I think they bagged it shortly after that. I like that it spools pretty quick, I'd say takes about 10-15% longer than stock to hit like 5psi, but it tows great and supposedly is good for 425hp. I'm not near that and don't ever plan to go above about 350-375.

Where should I send it to get rebuilt, about what would it cost? Or should I replace it?

Vaughn
 
Pics of turbo
 

Attachments

  • 98 Turbo DDJammer3.jpg
    98 Turbo DDJammer3.jpg
    67.4 KB · Views: 33
  • 98 Turbo DDJammer1.jpg
    98 Turbo DDJammer1.jpg
    62.1 KB · Views: 81
  • 98 Turbo DDJammer2.jpg
    98 Turbo DDJammer2.jpg
    65.3 KB · Views: 48
Hmm, im not really sure what turbo that is. Its not ball bearing is it?

It may be more cost effective to pick up a used HX40, but you could contact someone about rebuilding it first to see what it would run you. I would guess $300 or so at least to rebuild it.

Eric
 
It's not the BB, I am told this was part of the first batch of turbos DD ever did. I'd say 2002-03 timeframe??
 
Looks like a standard 60mm HX40/WH1E to me, except with a different exhaust housing. It shouldnt be any problem to either get rebuilt, or do it yourself with an HX40 rebuild kit.

Eric
 
What does DIY rebuild entail, removing the nut, pulling out the shaft, punching out the old bearing and hammering in a new one??
 
The "bearings" are really just bushings with holes through them that oil comes through so that the shaft rides on oil.

You pretty much just take the nut off, and pull the shaft out. Then the bushings are held in by c-clips and there are 2 of them. Take the C-Clips out and slide the bushings out, and slide the new ones in. There is also a thrust plate(not sure of the proper term) and a thrust washer that should be replaced. I think the thrust plate is only held on with 3 screws or something.

That is about it though. Its a pretty simple process, and shouldnt be too bad.

When i rebuilt a WH1C that i had, HTT didnt send the thrust plate and washer in the kit(they werent included). So when i rebuilt it, i noticed it was cracked a little, but i put it back together anyways. Bad idea. It blew apart the first time i let it rip. So just make sure and replace all those parts, and it should be fine.

Eric
 
That is not an HX40 comp. housing, they are the snap ring style just like HX35's. Almost looks to me like an HX50...
 
WH1E's were the older HX40 and they had the snap ring housing. That looks like a 6 blade 60mm HX40 wheel to me. Im pretty sure that is what it is.

Eric
 
The "bearings" are really just bushings with holes through them that oil comes through so that the shaft rides on oil.

You pretty much just take the nut off, and pull the shaft out. Then the bushings are held in by c-clips and there are 2 of them. Take the C-Clips out and slide the bushings out, and slide the new ones in. There is also a thrust plate(not sure of the proper term) and a thrust washer that should be replaced. I think the thrust plate is only held on with 3 screws or something.

That is about it though. Its a pretty simple process, and shouldnt be too bad.

Now supposedly modified HX40 turbos have "improvements" made to the bearing to increase durability, since that's a weak point on this turbo. If that is the case with this turbo how would it differ from "stock" and would I lose this "benefit" if I install an off-the-shelf '40 rebuild kit?

Also are tolerances out of the box pretty close? Lastly the nut looks like a 10 mm, I think 12-point nut?

By the way the inducer is 6 blade. 60mm is probably a good guess on the size since the limiting factor on this turbo is the compressor, basically has good exhaust flow and smallish compressor.

Vaughn
 
After I get back from the holiday I'll pull the turbo and take it apart. What's the trick to hold the impeller from spinning while cracking the nut? When reassembling what is the torque value and what locktite to use?
 
The turbine wheel has a hex head or something similar you can put a socket on to keep the shaft from spinning.
 
I have seen people take the nut off with a good air impact without even holding the exhaust wheel or shaft.

It may be reverse threaded, but im not sure. Im also not sure about any upgrades that were made, but i am pretty sure they all used standard bushings.

Call up, or E-mail High Tech Turbo. They are very knowledgeable, and will help you out with any specs and things you need. I bought my WH1C rebuild kit from them.

Eric
 
Didn't Edge take on the "jammer" turbos when they hired Diesel Dynamics and Lawrence was Doing R&D for them? Maybe they know somthing. High Tech would be your best shot for a repair.
 
Yeah I checked Edge's site and I don't see that they sell anything turbo related, I might call & ask though.
 
Talked to HTT today & they were very helpful, ordered the rebuild kit and will give this a shot :)
 
OK finally an update to this thread, got the turbo disassembled and unfortunately the compressor wheel made contact with the housing and put several fine grooves in it. The edge of the blades have been roughed up a bit. Looks like I'm sending this turbo in and hope it doesn't cost too much to fix. The question is whether it's worth spending much $$$ on or time do ditch it for something else. I like this turbo and would have to be convinced whatever I replace it with outperforms it (would have to spool faster and/or outflow this one).
 
Back
Top