dipricol Rail gauge. Issues?

JasonCzerak

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Has anyone had any issues with this gauge mucking with the rail pressure and over all smoothness of the truck? My truck's been acting up.. First I thought it was the TST box, then It did it with the TST harness just on (box unpluged with by-pass, rail harness unpluged) and stock programming...

What would happen is that rail would drop under 5,000 and the idle would float around 500rpm... I took a guess here and pulled it from the harness and the motor idles quieter and the truck is so much smoother.

There's a huge story I could type up here with the different testing and combination.


Just wondering if anyone suspected that gauge for any issues?
 
Camotanker said:
yes. there has been reports of this exact problem.

So what has anyone done about it? Can they be fixed? I don't wanna lose the gauge, it's a rather important gauge to keep tabs on
 
That’s funny I have had similar issues with mine. My truck would run rough and even died on me several times. It runs great with out the wiring harness/gauge in place. I have had two different gauges and two different wiring harnesses. I have been working with DiPricol and Doug Leno the engineer that put the gauge together. Unless someone on here has any ideas we have not been able to fix this. Would welcome anything constructive.
 
ive heard of troubles with the gauge/harness...no firsthand issues though.
 
I would like to hear some of the combo's you have tried. I just sort of assumed the guage was merely for monitoring rail pressure. You say it will run rough with the wire harness hooked to the gauge but all is well unhooked? The sending unit still in place? Im not questioning you, Im just looking at these for my set up. - GREG
 
I know of 10+plus that have them with no issues, so I would fist think that it's an isolated hardware issue with the harness. But if you've sent several back and installed more than 2 replacements and see the same issues... I'd want to know more.

here's a question, within the group claiming failures are most of the trucks with issues real late model.... like 06+ ?
 
The whole story... I think. :)

I have not sent any units back. It's over a year old. It does have the bug where it gets "outa wack" and reads high or low. This happens sooner when you have the rail pressure cranked up vs closer to stock.

I've noticed things more so when I got my modded FCA in place (since rail pressure directly relates to how the FCA is actuated...)

I could very well be my harness. I have had problems in the past where I could jiggle the wires and stumble the motor. I can't do that anymore. resoddered my cut wires in place, and worked the plugs a little. Maybe they are coming un-done again. I need to find someone to just send me the 2 ends that jump between the sensor and the stock harness (male and female ends). and I can sodder in the 2 lead wires to the gauge. This wire harness has been in for a few years and will be a ROYAL PAIN to remove and replace completely. In fact it's sunny and warm and I may just go take a look at things in a few here.

Now, I do have the TST R49AP. It does have a buggy rail pressure. I've eliminated the tst rail pressure from the truck. No matter what the combination of anything, the rail pressure surges. With a stock FCA, you can see it in the gauge, but I looked at this as a buggy gauge... you couldn't feel it, but could see it. The second I got the FCA mod installed, the truck wasn't drive able. Though various debugging, it was determined that the TST rail pressure was amplifying the surge. This is being worked on with TST. Depending on things, I may even take my truck down to TST and let them work out what's going on.

So, Smarty + TST = fun to drive again. (smarty moderate, 9, tst, static 3 degrees of timing, 2-4/0/0/std prog/boostfooling on)

Got a warm day. I decided to see how well the Wild TQ is now with the latest programming. 45 degree day on last Monday. THE ONLY CHANGE i made since we got the modded FCA to play nice. It ran great!!! BTW, it's mostly driveable now, you can keep up with traffic and now look like your racing up to 30mph :)

Tuesday in typical Minnesota fashion, it was 9 degree morning. In my morning runs I PUTZ! I mean,take my time, get the gears turns slowly. I run the RPM's up to 1800 and double clutch, get things in gear blah blah blah. it takes me 1/2 mile to get up to 30 if there's no one behind me :)

As you all know with TST' boxes, if you spend to much time around 1100 rpm you make trip a 0336 (or is it 0339). Crank code. nothing to send the truck into limp mod, but the tuck will stumble for a moment. However, I got that same feeling repeatedly with the Wild TM just trying to putz down the street!

I pulled over and un-changed my last change (kinda, can't go back to moderate TQ very easily). put the software back on stock. Immediate problem solved. The truck is drive able.... No code set, but the truck just cut out! pop pop pop sounds. never stalled. so it wasn't the TST bug for the crank sensor...

I decided to finally test out the TST box by it self (my first one just didn't work.) Auto timing up to 12 degrees, TQ 4 HP 7-9. The rail didn't work (as expected). The TST box works well. very little smoke. Tho felt as if it were missing something. not as smooth as the smarty. The Hot Juice hands down just would smoke the TST box IMHO.

Now, I get a call to go pick up the GF (her car has issues). On my way there I'm cursing fast (it's -8 out...) I get off the highway after about a 30 mile run and the truck just about stalls!!!! I'm like, WTF!. so I get to her, 3 peddling to keep the truck over 500rpm and drive though traffic as best as I can. I shut the truck down and pop in the TST by-pass.

Issue solved..... for a now.

Next morning drive to work was ok. Missing something... ohh yeah, about 230extra HP. (sucks when that happens eh?). Man the truck has no balls over 60. Down low it's rather quick with just the mechanical changes.

So driving around stock, with the TST harness plugged in and by-pass installed. I've started to notice the truck would start to the the almost stall again.

So since I didn't have anything pressing to do (like get to work). I found a parking lot and messed around. I was able to get the truck to hunt for idle. If you watch the gague, it would DROP then the idle would follow. I'm talking under 4000psi, almost to 3,000. I have a reset switch to "fix" the wackyness of the Rail gague, I would reset this WHILE the truck was hunting and the idle would imedeatly rush back to 750. Some times the truck would cut out for a brief moment. Something at this point is messing wit the current to the ECM....

The truck was essentially stock electronic wise other then the TST harness on by-pass and the DiProcol gauge (all other gauges are independent and don't fark with OEM wires)

And, well, it's much easier to unplug the rail gauge then the TST harness on the side of the road.

Problem solved... I drive around, no issues. loaded smarty, no issues. pluged in the TST box, no issues. Tried the rail pressure on the TST box, still get a surge, so that came back off.

It's been a few days and a few hundred miles and a few WOT runs and lower tempatures. no issues. Infact, it could be me, but I think the truck just runs smoother and is much quiter on the highway.. less injector rattle

bottom end acceleration just seem to be more firm and direct as well.

When I get some time at work, I'll call DiPricol and see what they have to say and go from there. I'm prolly out of warranty, ad I don't need to spend $300 on a new gauge.
 
mine acted funny sometimes but never effected the truck. I know of some that work great, but ive also seen the issues. There isn't a great way to measure rail pressure except this gauge....might try the Quadzilla digital gauge
 
Doug and I had been working on the off-reading problems and think we have the final prototype done. I know if you get ahold of Doug he will do everything he can to make things right.
 
lcaad1249 said:
Doug and I had been working on the off-reading problems and think we have the final prototype done. I know if you get ahold of Doug he will do everything he can to make things right.

This week I'll try to find some time to call them up over there and see what can be done.
 
It sounds to me like some sort of amperage draw. How is your mounted? (pod or overhead, dash ect) I seem to remember a fues or resistor being needed .
 
I have had quite a few returned for the same problem, just send it all in and have them send another.
 
97,500miles on the truck

Mounted in a pillar pod. There are 4 other autometer gauges hooked up. Well, 3 others (one's boost). They all share the same power supply that comes from a fuse under the hood (shares one that is switched that the TST box uses). 14gauge if I'm not mistaken as my lead on that.

The gauges remain on during start (unlike a cig wire tap)

I still haven't found time.. I think I'm going to wait for a warm 32+ degree weekend. So in a few weeks I might have a chance.

It's been a while, but I'm going to pull the return line on the relief valve and see if it's leaking. The one thing I forgot to mention in my "book" is that with that gauge hooked up , I was unable to "peg" the rail gauge while in neutral and not moving... You should be able to be parked, and just rev the motor to 3200rpm and see 26,000 for a moment. Most I've seen was 17-19,000. But while driving I could see 22,000-23,000 at WOT. Could this be the FCA mod changing this normal behavior?
 
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