Dmax, 12valve, or CR puller

jktcummins

24v GOD!!!! HAHAHA
Joined
Apr 1, 2007
Messages
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Ok i have a big delima.

I already have a 95 single cab 5spd 4x4 dually. I also have a built 12 valve.
Fly cut haisly pistons
head work with orings
5x18 injectors
s400 71mm
500 lift cam
650cc pump
engine was assymble by raymac racing engines

All i need is an Iron Gaint, hitch, driveline loops and shields, tires, guages, stacks, weight brackets.

The truck just needs the engine put in and all the other goodies installed.

The problem is i can make up my mind what to do.


I just found a 2002 dmax single cab 4x4 1ton single axle auto. For a good price. Is it worth the time to mess with a dmax????
And i have been considering finding a CR single cab dually 4x4 standard.

What would you do if you were in this situation??? The 12valve just needs finished. But i am pritty sure i could sell it pritty quick. I am really wanting to do something different since everyone around here is pulling cummins.

The other kicker is the only class they are allowing is a 2.6 class.

What are your ideas???????
This is going to be a dedicated pull truck. Will only see black top for a little fun.
 
Keep what you got , finish it, get a 2.6 cover for that s400 and go have fun
 
Ok i have a big delima.

I already have a 95 single cab 5spd 4x4 dually. I also have a built 12 valve.

All i need is an Iron Gaint, hitch, driveline loops and shields, tires, guages, stacks, weight brackets.

What would you do if you were in this situation??? The 12valve just needs finished. But i am pritty sure i could sell it pritty quick. I am really wanting to do something different since everyone around here is pulling cummins.

The other kicker is the only class they are allowing is a 2.6 class.

What are your ideas???????
This is going to be a dedicated pull truck. Will only see black top for a little fun.

I would think its easier to go with what you already have...Im a 12valve nut and I think in the long run you will be saving your self alot of $$$ just running the 12valve in the current dodge.

The current market is great for the 94-02 owner as in buying great turbo's right down to axles. If its never going to see the street again or just for a little fun...turn the pump right up, 5K+ springs and the charger, run a larger injector to have the fuel start helping with your cooling since you can't run water and giver $hit!!!!!!!

Just the idea of the reliablity is the #1 thing here I think and the fact that you have pretty well everything for it. Dump some money into a good clutch (I would reconsider the iron giant but I am biased to the Haisley Comp Puller) and get a set of built drive shafts (your all ready running a real Dana 80 in the rear) so I think you are good to go.

Have fun and never look back at the Dmax!!!!


Just my 2 cents...Ryan
 
Well thats kindof what i am leaning to. But I have noticed how well the dmax are pulling and winning alot of the 2.6 and 2.8 classes.
 
Flirting with 700HP in a Dmax your gonna need rods. You will probably have $10k in the engine and fuel system at least for the Dmax.
 
yeah but the dang thing is cheap. And i no where its been or the last 150000. I am talking less than 10 for the truck running.

I have just been letting my mind run way to much and just need to go with what i got. But its nice to have a little push.
 
Just build the Cummins, you've gone too far not to see it through.
 
With an 8500lb class you can hang 1000 with a crew cab D-max. I am with the others just build what you already have it will be alot cheaper.
 
Ok if i were to stay with what i got. What compression r the trucks in the 2.8 class running. The engine was build with 15:1 compression. I was planning on running water.
 
yeah but the dang thing is cheap. And i no where its been or the last 150000. I am talking less than 10 for the truck running.

I have just been letting my mind run way to much and just need to go with what i got. But its nice to have a little push.

Stick with what you got and tell me where that truck is. I need. :thankyou2:


Seriously, you would be money waaaaaay ahead by keeping what you got. If you decide to pass on the dmax, I'm also serious about coming and buying it. :D Please let me know.



IF you are really determined to build the duramax and want it to live through 2.6 class power (gonna say 650++rwhp) you are going to need, at a minimum, the following IMO:

Rods
Pistons cut and coated
cam keyed
rev kit for the heads
head and main studs
a custom charger (your 71mm s400 with a 2.6 cover would be nice ;) )
a locker for the front end
tie rod sleeves and centerlink support
traction bars, loops etc.
modified CP3
a good lift pump setup - a few options here
built trans.
good tires
injectors
QUALITY TUNING on a dyno
some kind of exhaust system
an intake system to fit whatever charger you go with
and all the gaskets, seals, and labor to put these parts on.


I'd venture a guess that you could have a reliable enough engine for $7500. Trans can probably be done for $4K if you build it, $5k+ if a shop builds it. Charger - I'd just keep the one you have and buy a PPE GT42 complete install kit to mount it on. Fuel system will be another $2500 - that's modded CP3, bigger pickup in tank and lift pumps. Prices vary significantly on injectors. If you did it all for $20K (not including buying the truck) I'd say you got some good deals and should have a decent setup. This won't be a max effort machine but rather a reliable and relatively capable build. Max effort trucks are going to have fully built engines, trans., driveline, etc. and have all their ducks in a row. Not knowing how competitive your area is, it's ahrd to say how well this proposed set up would do.

IMO, it would be about the same money to do a CR Cummins as it is to do a Duramax except you aren't going to find one in a truck for $10K like you have the DMax.


C-ya
C-ya
 
If you can control the bounce it might be, but you really need to do the math, you can hang probably 1300 lbs on a 2nd gen extended cab in a 8500 lb class, maybe 1400 if you rip out the back seat, and the center console.
Running through some quick numbers you have about a 12% leverage advantage with the extended cab long bed so it is equivalent of putting another 170lbs out front. What is the weight difference between the two?

Are you really gonna hang 1550lbs out front?

I would take a long wheelbase truck.
 
If the 96 i was telling you about was a standard i would have already jumped on it. Yeah putting 1550lbs out front is crazy. It would take a heck of a weight bracket to hold all that expecially if you did a little crow hop at the end.

And the area around here isnt that competitive. For the last 3 years i have place atleast 3rd with my 02 dodge at every pull i have gone to. I am just tired of breaking crap on my daily driver. This year they actally started a purse class allow only 2.6 trucks to pull. They just wanted to have atleast 10 truck that meet the rules come to very event.
 
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