dt 466 no top end power

beeferator

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Sep 10, 2008
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Hi guys rookie in need of some advice. I understand these motors arent ment for high rpm power but mine just falls on its face over 2200-2500 rpms. I have a bigger turbo built by bell turbo and running 35psi the cam plate is all the way forward any ideas?
 
Yep, tighten the gov springs 4 clicks, or buy a 3k GSK for a 12valve Dodge/Cummins, and grind the fuel plate to a #0(like the one in my avatar that actually went into a 466 that's in the youtube videos). Then, you need to advance the timing to get to those rpms. Dont worry much about rpm, you'll float valves at 32-3400, yet will hold together up to 4500. The ones I do, I set at 16* so it has good all around power, yet also see a smidge better mpg. Most truck applications are between 10 & 15* of timing. As noted by my Low Buck Fuel rate site....Now where'd that link go?

ah- ha:
http://www.freewebs.com/nevrenufhp/index.htm
AND...youtube videos to see what you could expect after it's running better:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILQQMBMJygQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=StdGBMlR3Zg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sbw7J3zXA4E
 
Last edited:
I got a shot of the timing gear on a truck I did on Thursday.
Here's the 2 methods:
You set the PUMP at "TDC" and the CRANK at 17*-19* BTDC, just make SURE you are on the COMPRESSION stroke of #1 when you do this, or you'll have to try a second time with the crank rotated 360*! Don't ask how I know - LoL.

There are no marks on the pump gear to the idler gear, you align the timing mark on therear of the IP gear to the pointer under the plug in the driver's side of the front cover (3/8" female square drive plug), with the CRANK set at 17*-19* BTDC, you slip the pump on with the drive gear bolts LOOSE so the timing mark in the hole lines up with the pointer in the hole, THEN Tq the gear bolts down.
---------and, #2------
I stick a 1/4" bolt or phillips#2 in the hole once you get the timing marks lined up. Rotate the crank(I used the alternator nut) CCW (if you're advancing)to snug up the gear against the bolt/screwdriver. Then, loosen the 4 bolts. Watch the timing marks on the crank as you rotate CCW. The marks are really hard to read, so I just count the hash marks after it loosens up, and trust it was still set at that certain degree still. The example: the truck I did the other day was set at 12* from the factory. So, I counted 4 hash marks in reverse engine rotation, so it at least has more advance even if it's not exactly within .25 degrees. When you get your desired timing, tighten up the 4 bolts, and remove your bolt or screwdriver and replace the cover & it's done.
 

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