dtc 2285 any help?

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03BlackWidow

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P2285 ICP Injector control pressure sensor circuit low ICP signal is lower than specified value



That is what my truck keeps throwing now, it still starts, runs and drive like it has for the past year but all of a sudden its decided to throw a code and engine light. My trucks had many things done to it over its life and even when it would die, not start or miss really bad it never threw an engine light.

What is usually the culprit, is it the snesor going out and leaking thru the plug or an leak thats finally throwing a code? Last summer my truck would die and crank for a few minutes before finally restarting every once in awhile and now it doesnt die but if the trucks warmed up and shutoff then immedaitly try to restarts it cranks forever but if you wait a minute or two it starts like normal. Which really sucks in a drivethru like the bank or fast food.
On a cold start the truck does miss and kinda shudder occasionally untill its warm and then its completely normal.

Im just trying to see where to check and try to find my problem with out just throwing parts or money at it.
 
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I just had this same issue a couple weeks ago, truck would idle rough though on start up... sometimes, other times it was fine. My dealer replaced injector #4 under warranty and issue was resolved. It came out of the blue too.

Your long start up times after the truck is warm is probably from the STC (snap to connect) fitting. Search for that, it's very common.
 
mdub707 said:
I just had this same issue a couple weeks ago, truck would idle rough though on start up... sometimes, other times it was fine. My dealer replaced injector #4 under warranty and issue was resolved. It came out of the blue too.

Your long start up times after the truck is warm is probably from the STC (snap to connect) fitting. Search for that, it's very common.
Click to expand...

he's got an '03...the '03's and early '04's didn't have the STC fittings i think. That started in '04.5 i believe. To me sounds like the ICP sensor needs to get replaced.
 
The dealer replaced my motor a lil over a year ago i think. Would they reuse my old standpipes or would put in the newer stuff? I havent had the valvecovers off this new motor yet.

I did have a mech at work today put a genysis on my truck today after a cold start and it ran some koer test i think and nothing really came back but like already said my rough idle and long cranking time is after its been driven awhile and completely warmed up. It also said my ficm input was 13.8 and output was 47.8, so i dont think it has anything to do with it either.


I am going to change my oil tomorow night and try some of the valvoline blue if i can find it, ive been running the motorcraft oil and its got a few miles on it now. I doubt itll change my icp code but it needs done regardless.

Other then that i am gonna have him hook the scanner back up after I drive into work and its good and warm, what can i look for to if the icp sensor is going out or not? I could probably borrow the scanner if I wanted but dont know exactly what to look for or how to test it.
 
9 out of 10 times its the icp sensor leaking oil through the connector into the harness, if its a 03 or early 04 engine with icp sensor back by the ipr when code p2285 is set.
 
Last night I changed my oil and fuel filters. The injectors sound a little smoother but driving it is much worse then before. From a stop its a lil rough then when the converter is locked 50-75mph at part throttle its like driving over washboard. I have a pretty new suncoast w/ the extreme rebuild kit, higher stall suncoast converter and billet input, magtec dd pan, this tranny has never given me a problem I know its good. Also now at wot it is cutting out like its on 6 cylinders or so, itll accellerate but sounds awful and doesnt go thru the rpms as quick as before.
I figured if it was a hp oil leak that new oil would be thicker and wouldnt leak as bad as old thin oil.

Today I went to the dealer and bought a new icp and harness, put it on already and it didnt seem to fix or change anything other then it maybe starts a lil better or quicker but not much. The old plug was full of oil too.

So are there any other possibilities besides a hp oil leak now? Im gonna try to get the mech at work to put the genysis on it again and try to see if an injector or somehthing pops up. I really dread thinking about tearing the turbo, intake, egr etc.. off to fix a possible o-ring but im running out of ideas and dont really want to continure driving it as bad as its gotten to be now. Also since the dealer replaced my motor recently what parts would I need to fix an oil leak at the standpipes or wherever, do they pop apart and just get new orings or what, ive never dealt with it before.
 
one thing that happened to me is that an injector plug wasn't plugged into the injector harness all the way. I believe it was injector #2 and it looked like it was plugged in, but it wasn't all the way and it was running very rough and when i went to accelerate, it would shake and shutter really bad. Just check the injector plugs over and make sure they are plugged into the harness tight and that the C-clips are clipped good.
 
possible ficm getting weak. seen this alot. needs 48 volts to fire injectors, usually will start dropping below 45 volts and creates a hard start, running rough, excessive smoke. lack power. hope this helps. just a possibility
 
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