elite big chill oil cooler?

BIG JUICE

BIG JUICE

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Dec 17, 2006
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does anybody have any experience with elites oil cooler? can I just use one from summit? where would this even tie in at? is there really any need? I have never seen anybody with one of these and it just sparked my interest. like to get some discussion goin.

I know everybody says the 6.0 shears oil quickly. what if we kept it cooler? maybe then I could extend my oil changes?
 
Keeping it cooler is always a good idea. You could combine a nice cooler in line with an FS2500. Setrab is one of the best to look at. Plenty of room to mount them.
 
you mean inline of the fs2500? I don't think that would move enough oil to benefit. or did you mean inline from the factory cooler?
 
BIG JUICE said:
you mean inline of the fs2500? I don't think that would move enough oil to benefit. or did you mean inline from the factory cooler?
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Agreed... you'd never cool anything at that rate, and depending on the pressure drop, might screw with the filter or the cooler performance, or both.

I remember seeing some huge multi row oil coolers on 2 stroke detroits... that's probably more of what we need in place of that water cooled mess in the engine valley... That and some hydraulic tubing and hose that will last better than 10k miles.
 
Whats the oriffice size in the fs2500? Its .040 in an oil-guard.
 
Abrannan19 said:
and FS2500 oil bypass can extend your oil change intervals
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having cooler, cleaner oil is always going to be better than not having it, however unfortunately this will not really go a long way toward eliminating oil shear. that's one of the major downsides of the PSD in my opinion.

at 64K miles my rod/main bearings were worn down to the copper on most of them.... i couldn't believe my eyes when i saw them !! i highly recomend anyone planning on hotrodding the 6oh to instal DFL coated rod/main bearings
 
PSDPlayer said:
Whats the oriffice size in the fs2500? Its .040 in an oil-guard.
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oh it's way tiny Doug... it's a bypass oil filter that cleans down to the micron as far as particle size, you'd never flow enough thru it to use it as the main oil filter for the vehicle, it's kind of a "passive" system that works behind the scenes and should NOT be plumbed inline with either the factory oil filter OR the oil cooler (aftermarket or not)

i've been working on an external oil cooler for the 6oh to eliminate the stock coolant/oil fiasco also along with some input from eric at innovative.

however i'd go with a good custom built external oil cooler as well as an FS2500 for longevity, but i'm curious on this new product too
 
SinCityDiesel said:
oh it's way tiny Doug... it's a bypass oil filter that cleans down to the micron as far as particle size, you'd never flow enough thru it to use it as the main oil filter for the vehicle, it's kind of a "passive" system that works behind the scenes and should NOT be plumbed inline with either the factory oil filter OR the oil cooler (aftermarket or not)

i've been working on an external oil cooler for the 6oh to eliminate the stock coolant/oil fiasco also along with some input from eric at innovative.

however i'd go with a good custom built external oil cooler as well as an FS2500 for longevity, but i'm curious on this new product too
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No ****. What is this coolant/oil fiasco that you speak of? Go unhook the oil line from an oil guard. The .040 orifice flows quite enough for running it though a cooler back to the engine to get a drop in temps.
 
PSDPlayer said:
No ****. What is this coolant/oil fiasco that you speak of? Go unhook the oil line from an oil guard. The .040 orifice flows quite enough for running it though a cooler back to the engine to get a drop in temps.
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i wasn't talking about the oilguard doug, i was referring to the FS2500
 
Dalpilot said:
Where did you run 11.74 at 117 at? And on 35's?
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it's not unheard of bro, my boy nate has almost the same setup as me, on 35's.. except he's running the II 62/80 and he ran 11.86 @ 116 on 35's, granted his sticks are a tad larger 225's but he also had a bad nos solenoid and a slipping converter... my drivetrain is finally dialed in (after 4 tranny/4 converters), the only thing really bugging me now is that i have some sort of leak in my vacuum system for my hubs so my 4wd takes a while to engage unless i manually lock em, but my center caps require me to remove the wheels to do that and i havent wanted to take the tires off every time i want to go in and out of 4wd..

oh yeah and now for some reason it leaks a bit of motor oil for a few minutes after i run it hard. if i drive normal and park it no oil, but anytime i've been on it hard it will leak oil, looks like it's coming out of my pedestal below the turbo, and also somewhere on the passenger side near the head i think.
 
and the fiasco i was referring to was in response to Kleetus' remark about the
"water cooled mess in the engine valley" ..

oh and it's been puking coolant lately on hard runs but not all the time.. yes it's studded.. funny thing is i can't seem to pinpoint exactly when it pukes and doesn't puke...
sometimes it pukes when the boost goes over 45psi even when the EGT's stay below 1200.. sometimes it pukes when the RPMS go over 4000 even when the EGT's are low and the boost is low... sometimes it pukes when the EGT's go over 1400 even at low rpm and low boost..

and SOMETIMES i can get lucky and make a full pass at full boost and high egt's and NO puke, but the RPMS never got over 3500 in top gear..

seems like the most often time that i find it pukes is at lower boost, around 1200 degrees and HIGH rpms in lower gears OR HIGH BOOST in higher gears.

strange. it's coming out of the degas bottle, but i really am afraid it's a head gasket because i know my heads are not perfectly flat.
 
I was referring to a cooler something like these ones, only larger/more passes:

http://www.perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page10.htm
or
http://www.directindustry.com/prod/setrab/hydraulic-oil-cooler-20943-339871.html#
http://www.setrab.com/uploads/media/Setrab_Proline_racing_oil_coolers.pdf

It was an 8V92TTA in an American LaFrance aerial that had a 3 foot square one of these, with some 5/8 or 3/4 inch lines feeding this cooler.

Food for thought, the earth moving and industrial equipment world has been perfecting this kind of application a lot longer than we have... might as well benefit from their experience.
 
SinCityDiesel said:
having cooler, cleaner oil is always going to be better than not having it, however unfortunately this will not really go a long way toward eliminating oil shear. that's one of the major downsides of the PSD in my opinion.

at 64K miles my rod/main bearings were worn down to the copper on most of them.... i couldn't believe my eyes when i saw them !! i highly recomend anyone planning on hotrodding the 6oh to instal DFL coated rod/main bearings
Click to expand...

I totally agree. My bearings at 22,000 miles were bad. I am good with my service intervals also. I recomend coated bearings also and I think the fs2500 is a really good idea.
 
yup, i recomend to everyone who asks if they plan on opening up their motor for anything to go ahead and put coated bearings in it. probably one of the best mods you can do, because all the aftermarket turbos and injectors in the world aren't going to get you down the track, or even home if your motor decides to seize up or spin a bearing. it's cheap insurance
 
I take it you guys weren't doing any kind of oil analysis? That should have shown some rather remarkable amounts of metal in the oil.
 
nope, cause it's not going to change anything in the way i drive.
i change the oil regularly and it's going to wear as much as it wants to whether or not i send it in for analysis...
 
o k a y . . .

Not saying you have to change any driving habits, but you might want to change brand of oil, weight, or even reduce the miles between changes. Somehow I think changing the oil is cheaper than changing the block when a rod locks up and pokes through.

How long are the coated bearings lasting?
 
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