Engine Rebuild Questions...

Muddin_dude06

Muddin_dude06

...
Joined
Sep 10, 2007
Messages
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I am going to finally start my rebuild it looks like so time to start pickin' up parts I suppose!

I plan on running the stock pistons that I have, and just replacing the 3 that were damaged by my dropped valve. But if I have to bore the cylinders I will get .020" over pistons. Are these the right ones to use in place of the factory ones?

MAHLE Pistons 286010 .020
5.9L 359cid B DIESEL 12 VALVE 6CYL. 1994-98 B SERIES
TURBO, RE-ENTRANT BOWL, INLINE INJ. PUMP
PIN DIA. 1.575"
COMP. DIST. 2.823"
RING SIZES 1-3.00MM 1-2.4MM 1-4.0MM

Also are the factory rod and main bolts reusable or do I need to buy a fresh set?

I had 12mm ARP head studs installed at the time of my damage, could that physical contact between the piston and head potentially stretch my front head studs?

I assume a machine shop will be able to tell if my rods were bent, would it be a good idea to have them balanced? And what benefit if any would polishing the rods have?

Should I buy a new oil pump to install in the engine during the rebuild? The factory one has around 227,000 miles on it.

What kind of inspection/cleaning should be done to the piston oil cooling nozzles?

And I think my last question is, my camshaft gear slipped half way off the snout of my camshaft, which is what I think caused my destruction. To keep it inplace a few told me just to tack weld it on in a few spots, others say that is a sin and to drill and tap for a retainer. How many people have just tack welding them without any later issues? And if I tack weld it, what rod would ya'll use? I was thinking a 7018ac with about 120-150 amps going through it?

Anyway sorry for the long post but thank you for any help! I am in dire need to get back into my 12v! lol
 
I am going to finally start my rebuild it looks like so time to start pickin' up parts I suppose!


Also are the factory rod and main bolts reusable or do I need to buy a fresh set?

I had 12mm ARP head studs installed at the time of my damage, could that physical contact between the piston and head potentially stretch my front head studs?
The safe answer is replace everything. The practical answer is that the head studs are probably fine. It's common practice to replace rod bolts, but many people re-use them. They are a torque to yield bolt which isn't supposed to be re-used.

I assume a machine shop will be able to tell if my rods were bent, would it be a good idea to have them balanced? And what benefit if any would polishing the rods have? Make sure the machine shop knows what the rods have been through. They'll be able to tell if they are bent or not. The rod weights are likely very close, but yes-- have the rotating assembly (rods, pistons, crank) balanced. Polishing the rods removes inconsistencies in the beam surface, eliminating possible starting points for cracking.
Should I buy a new oil pump to install in the engine during the rebuild? The factory one has around 227,000 miles on it.
There is a method to check the internal clearances of the pump that determine whether or not it can be reused. Your machine shop will be familiar with the procedure.




Anyway sorry for the long post but thank you for any help! I am in dire need to get back into my 12v! lol
 
Just be safe and buy a new oil pump... their only $50-70 if I remember right.
 
Check with Mumau Diesel- Best pricing and service:rockwoot::rockwoot:for all your Cummins needs.
 
JFlagg said:
Just be safe and buy a new oil pump... their only $50-70 if I remember right.
Click to expand...

Kinda what I was thinking. I need this engine/truck to be as reliable as it gets after dropping the money on it, so I want to make sure I don't have to worry about something simple like an oil pump.
 
rebuild

chris, the studs, if you have your doubts pm comp461 and see if you can send them to him and have him check them out to be safe he isn't to far away from you.
the rod and main bolts, new ones at least!!! and aftermarket are not to expensive.
the oil pump, they are to cheap not to replace. mine checked out but had some score markes on the lobes.

and the best advice that anyone on here can or has given you is call jeff at mamau diesel!!!!!!!!! he has the best prices on any oem part you need.

good luck buddy, sorry i didn't call i got busy at work possibly blew a headgasket on the stroker and my daughter had a cheer competition out of town.
 
I was planning on getting with Jeff actually, I had spoke to him a few months ago about buying the parts to do a rebuild but I was denied unemployment so I didn't get to do it then.

No sweat Ben, just give me a call when you get the chance. As soon as I get that housing I am going to start building my twins.
 
I think Mumau is the one of the few things that everybody agrees with on CompD. Great service, great prices.


Zach
 
Does Mumau do rebuilding, or are they a parts house. It's not always easy to find a shop that knows all the bells and whistles that need to be added and some of the special procedures.( especially matching the cam to the piston height).
 
I will be doing all the work with the help of two buddys who work for Mustang Cat down here, they do everything from trannys to full blown engine rebuilds.

I found a place here called Houston Engine Sales & Auto Machines that will inspect and turn the crank for $165, ready to go rebuilt head $500-600, and check out all the rods for $5 each.

And I'll be taking the block to Joe Hellmann to get it decked and firering grooves cut in the deck surface for a good price. He also has some pistons and a power steering pump that I am going to snag if he still has them.

Depending on how much they take off the block I think I will be using a .020" over HG to compensate and maybe provide a tad more piston to valve clearance.

Does that sound like a good plan of attack ya'll?
 
Muddin_dude06 said:
What kind of inspection/cleaning should be done to the piston oil cooling nozzles?

And I think my last question is, my camshaft gear slipped half way off the snout of my camshaft, which is what I think caused my destruction. To keep it inplace a few told me just to tack weld it on in a few spots, others say that is a sin and to drill and tap for a retainer. How many people have just tack welded them without any later issues? And if I tack weld it, what rod would ya'll use? I was thinking a 7018ac with about 120-150 amps going through it?
Click to expand...

Does anyone have any input on these questions?
 
Snedge on here or MUMUA Diesel ask for Jeff he can hook you up with parts just got mine in thursday i ordered them monday after noon great to buy from. For cam its all in who you prefer you'll guy different opions from every one. Comp461 will help you with your studs.
 
I will be getting all the rings, seals, gaskets and oil pump from Snedge. I just need to call get prices from him and then place the order, but I have to turn the crank and get the block done first.
 
Muddin_dude06 said:
I will be getting all the rings, seals, gaskets and oil pump from Snedge. I just need to call get prices from him and then place the order, but I have to turn the crank and get the block done first.
Click to expand...

Don't cut the crank! Find a used one and stick with standard bearings.
Over sized bearings are ridiculously priced.:doh:
 
Snedge said:
Don't cut the crank! Find a used one and stick with standard bearings.
Over sized bearings are ridiculously priced.:doh:
Click to expand...

I don't know if it will get turned down yet, the machine shop is going to check it first. To me it looks to be in great shape, it has no scratches or score marks that I can find. But they will check it and LMK
 
Are there any better replacement pieces for the piston oil cooling nozzles? One of mine got broken when taking the piston out of #1 :doh: But I figured I would replace them while doing a full rebuild anyway.

What is the recomended piston to wall clearance on a street truck BTW? Should I be able to get by with just a hone and new stock size rings? The cylinders had some much crosshatch left but they also had some vertical marks. Nothing on the cylinder walls though is deep enough to feel with a fingernail or key...?
 
oil nozzle

chris, the gasket kit should come with new oil nozzle/squirters. i know mine did when i built mine.
your studs box them up and call greg and ask if he would check them out or send them in to arp for checking.
 
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