Engine running parameter/signal..

mitchdog7

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Jul 28, 2012
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Ok, so i've got a few small projects with an arduino that i'm currently working on, remote start, post-turbo egt, turbo cool down timer etc.. And i'm wondering what engine parameter that I can have the arduino look for to know whether the motor is running or not? So, if i would do a remote start how can the Arduino tell when enough cranking is enough? Would the tach signal work? or an oil pressure sensor? i'm not really familiar with any other sensors that my 94 12v even has.
Thanks for any help/advice.
 
And, I don't mean that i'm somehow using obd2 or whatever diagnostic thing our trucks use to plug the Arduino into, everything will be hard wired/custom wired. I mean what wire can I tap into and wire it to my arduino?
 
I'd use the signal from the engine speed sensor. I don't know if it is off of frequency, or just a rise in voltage, but that would be your best bet. If you have it set off of oil pressure, in the cold, it might keep cranking for 20+ seconds after the engine is running.
 
That was the other signal i was thinking of. Pretty sure it pulses a 5v signal at each notch in the damper right? That would work perfect as my Arduino runs at 5v... If i ever get around to finishing this project I'll have to do a writeup of it, as it'll be cheaper than doing a set of gauges, and could datalog as well.

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I'd use the signal from the engine speed sensor. I don't know if it is off of frequency, or just a rise in voltage, but that would be your best bet. If you have it set off of oil pressure, in the cold, it might keep cranking for 20+ seconds after the engine is running.

This signal is a 0v to 5v (or 12v can't remember) square wave. Most aftermarket devices I've seen have trouble interpreting a signal like this. Also it could stop in a on or off location. What signal can the device interpret?

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Well, it has digital i/o pins that i should be able to program it to read the signal then interpret the frequency into rpms.

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Why not go off the charge circuit. Program it to disengage the starter when it sees 13.2+ volts.

This is how my viper 5901 with remote start operates. Tried to go off the tach wire and the PCM did not like the added resistance and did some weird things. The alt wouldn't charge, no lockup or OD, fuel gauge wouldn't read.

When I went to voltage sensing and disconnected the tach wire. Life was good again.
 
Why not go off the charge circuit. Program it to disengage the starter when it sees 13.2+ volts.

This is how my viper 5901 with remote start operates. Tried to go off the tach wire and the PCM did not like the added resistance and did some weird things. The alt wouldn't charge, no lockup or OD, fuel gauge wouldn't read.

When I went to voltage sensing and disconnected the tach wire. Life was good again.

No issues when the grid heater stays on for 20-30 seconds on first start up?
 
I'm not using grid heaters in FL, but on my system it is programmable for a grid heater or glow plug relay delay.

On edit: the 5901 will make 3 attempts to start, resetting for the grid heaters each time.
 
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Yeah, no grid heater here either. Not needed in fl. So the alternator will put out 13+v immediately after startup? I could just monitor battery voltage then? Or do i need a wire directly from the alternator? I'll have to test this tomorrow, then build a safety shutoff timer in case the alternator quits working.
Shouldn't be too bad if i can spend some time with it all. Thanks for the advise.

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There is also a crank timer, mine is set at 0.4 sec I believe, so during our colder months it starts on the second attempt. My engine normally starts within a half second through out the rest of the year. I'm not sure how yours works but mine gets the voltage input from the"constant" wire coming out of the control box. So it sees source voltage while off, senses the drop while cranking and disengages when voltage rises to 13.2 or higher. Pm me the info on your system and I'll see what I can dig up for you.
 
I believe that's a hall-effect sensor. If you want fool-proof sensing, use something like a MAX9921. If it turns out to be a VR sensor, you'll need something like a LM2907 or a NCV1124 to condition the signal.
 
Sarasota. The controller I'll be using is just a small microprocessor (Arduino mega) that I'll be writing my own code to do it all with. It runs at 5 volts so I'll have to use a voltage divider if i use battery charge to determine of the motor is running, but it shouldn't be to bad.
I'm no electronics expert, but I've got the egt sensor and lcd screen built already, just need a thinner probe so it will react faster

I've already got a gauge for pre-turbo. Plus for a turbo timer I'll need the post turbo egt. Figured I'll see how cheaply i can make my own set of gauges,
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Sarasota. The controller I'll be using is just a small microprocessor (Arduino mega) that I'll be writing my own code to do it all with. It runs at 5 volts so I'll have to use a voltage divider if i use battery charge to determine of the motor is running, but it shouldn't be to bad.
I'm no electronics expert, but I've got the egt sensor and lcd screen built already, just need a thinner probe so it will react faster

I've already got a gauge for pre-turbo. Plus for a turbo timer I'll need the post turbo egt. Figured I'll see how cheaply i can make my own set of gauges,
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Think I would use something a little more refined than a voltage divider....

Do you think it is the probe that is acting slowly, or the fact that it is a post turbo reading?
 
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Plus, this gives me something to do in my free time. Hence why I bought a 2nd gen... Lots to tinker with/fix.
Also, i should be able to data log everything to a sd card if i get it all working. May end up getting a air pressure sensor as well and wire that in..

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Hmm, thought this would send a notification to my phone... What else can be used to lower the voltage? I still haven't installed the Arduino or post turbo gauge, truck keeps having other issues.. I just checked the gauge using a map torch and noticed it took about 10 seconds or more to accurately read the temp. Then another 30 seconds or more to go back to ambient temp. I think the thinner probe i ordered should fix that.

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