Fan cluch test

dangerous06

dangerous06

diesel tech
Joined
Mar 24, 2008
Messages
3,564
Is there a way to test the fan clutch? I'd hate to throw 400. away and have it not be the fan clutch! I was pulling a heavy load 25K+ up a steep hill motor was maxed out first gear from a stop straight up about a 1/8 mile, temps climbed to 240 and 220 on the trans then they spiked to max! temp alarm came on after cresting the hill. Soon after temps dropped back to 220 I never heard the fan kick on hard like a jet? So I think it failed at some point I just never had this much load in a while. Can the fan be jumped to full on?
Is there a resistance test or?
 
there is a way to test the fan

if im not mistaken, pin five and six on the fan clutch plug assembly itself is the way to go, 12 volts to pin five, and it should lock up if it is working...., with the key on, the plug to the fan on pin 6 should have 5 volts or so... an even simpler test.. turn on the truck, kick the AC on to max, and see if the fan comes on... if not.. it might be done...also check for the P0483 fan speed code, or anything related to the fan clutch...

usually if the fan is bad, you can stop it with your hand really easily.. as the code above mentioned is triggered when the fan drops below 75 rpms, and I don't remember the upper threshold...
 
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I have heard that Mopar OEM clutch is the only reliable way to go

Saving $50 on a Dorman isn't worth it, according to some

I wonder if the fan clutch is able to be purchased through Cummins for a cheaper price

Do you have any codes?

I have a "P0483" code.........which is the Cooling Fan Speed

99,000 miles on my truck
 
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Check is the connection itself........ underneath mounted at the fan shroud for visible issues IE broke or pulled apart.

Normally when this code is set is when the fan speed is less than 75RPM or more than 4000RPM.

If the connector has not come apart or damaged or if the above statement has not been exceeded then a more in depth search will be required and you will need a decent DRB to test it.

OTHER DTC'S
(Y5) SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORT TO 5-VOLT SUPPLY (Y3) CIRCUIT
(Y5) SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN FROM ECM TO FAN CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
(Y3) SUPPLY CKT OPEN FROM ECM HARNESS CONNECTOR TO FAN CLUTCH HARNESS
CONNECTOR
INTERMITTENT CONDITION
(Y5) SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO RETURN IN THE HARNESS
(Y5) SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
(Y5) SIGNAL CIRCUIT IN ECM SHORTED TO GROUND INSIDE ECM
(Y5) SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE IN THE ECM
(Y3) 5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT IN ECM
 
dangerous06 said:
Oh yeah I can stop the fan! I better order one any good suppliers out there?
Click to expand...

well

ive gone through four fans on this damn truck already.. and the autozone one, has lasted me just as long as the factory OEM fan clutch, with a lifetime warranty being the only difference....

the OEM one is reliable as can be, mine lasted two years before it gave out, right now I have an autozone fan clutch, and it has held really well, the problem with those, is that you can get a bad one out of the box, has happened to me before as well..

pick your poison on this one, but id rather have the lifetime warranty, over forking out 400 bucks every two years... ive got the FC down to an hours worth of time for R&R

as the poster above me has stated as well, please check your connection, and check it well, and be sure to keep those pesky wires out of the way of the fan itself.. otherwise, youd be getting a new fc sooner than later...
 
D45 said:
I have heard that Mopar OEM clutch is the only reliable way to go

Saving $50 on a Dorman isn't worth it, according to some

I wonder if the fan clutch is able to be purchased through Cummins for a cheaper price

Do you have any codes?

I have a "P0483" code.........which is the Cooling Fan Speed

99,000 miles on my truck
Click to expand...

when I did my most recent fan clutch..

I cleared all DTCs, and the code went away.... and has not come back since.. and that's with an autozone fan clutch...

try clearing out the code see if it comes back, other than that, there are ways to test it

not saying that they are the best, or the way to go, ive just done both and gotten similar results.....

230K miles on mine.. and rising daily
 
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Start engine. Turn A/C on. Take red rag and stretch out over a/c condenser. Fan should pull enough air to hold the red rag in place. A piece of cardboard or paper will work too. Also make damn sure the radiator/CAC is free of dirt and trash.
 
Is a 2013 6.7 fan clutch better than the 5.9? Will it fit? Figure a few more years would give research and development time to improve the unit!
 
dangerous06 said:
Is a 2013 6.7 fan clutch better than the 5.9? Will it fit? Figure a few more years would give research and development time to improve the unit!
Click to expand...

now thats a good question. im sick of replacing fan clutches. my truck is ready for its third one. i went all summer without a/c
 
doesnt look like it will work haha. our fans have 6 bolts holding the clutch the the fan. the 2013 has 4 in what looks to be a different pattern
 
I went eletric after the second clutch ate wires. With no fan/clutch at all my a/c still cooled and never over heated. Going down road only. Couldn't idle for more than a few mins tho.
 
x3 on using the MAX a/c.

also if you know anyone with efi live you can get fan clutch speed readings realtime.

ive been thru 2 of them and the one i have now (OEM) shows to be 250rpm's below spec @ 2000 rpm's. ac still works fine and the truck never overheats.

i just did a test on a friends 06 and his showed to be 400 rpm's under spec with A/c on max and his A/C sucks in the summer.
 
good question, maybe thats why my truck does real good mileage, its not working to spin the fan haha
 
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