Flat Towing a Single Cab..

Krazeeun

Krazeeun

Hardway Performance
Joined
Feb 4, 2008
Messages
2,369
Alright, hear me out. I'm single cab shopping in hopes of retiring my quadcab back to DD/towing only instead of exploding my DD on a weekly basis trying to race it.

I don't have a place to really put a personal trailer due to HOA restrictions.. bla bla bla.


My quadcab 4x4 6.7 (7200-7400lbs) flat towing a relatively stripped single cab probably hauling a set of drag radials in its bed, I'm guesstimating 6000lbs. Using something along the lines of this which is rated for 10,000lbs Roadmaster BlackHawk 2 All-Terrain Motorhome-Mounted Tow Bar - 10,000 lbs Roadmaster Tow Bars RM-422

Fail, or good to go?
 
I have a similar set up on my camper which is about 7500-8000lbs. They do seem to help a little but to me it was not worth the expence. My tag along with a bobcat on it averages 14k and doesnt wiggle when loaded right at any speed.
 
Good to go. Can't tow an auto without a drive shaft disconnect that I'm sure your aware of considering where you work.
 
scratch that.. I'm not single cab shopping, I'm a single cab owner... I think I'm digging this flat towing idea... no trailer to buy/store/maintain/tag but at the expense of having to swap wheels/tires at the track each time... hmm

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18v snap on impact. That seems like a good way to go without all the up keep of a trailer.
 
To each his own, but dang, flat towing a race truck, just make sure you have parts if you grenade a rear, flat towing all tires have to be able to move, on a trailer they can drag up and back down. Just food for thought.
 
06 DIESEL said:
To each his own, but dang, flat towing a race truck, just make sure you have parts if you grenade a rear, flat towing all tires have to be able to move, on a trailer they can drag up and back down. Just food for thought.
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That is a good point. Maybe he is feeling lucky.
 
The rear is full float, if it chunks, I can remove axle shafts and roll on. Same with fronts, remove inners, beat ujoints apart, reinstall stubs in the unit bearing and drive.

The only issue I'd see is if I smack the wall or get in some sort of situation where the truck is unable to roll
 
just get a trailer and go, a lot of those tow bars don't like little up down angles at all. A lot of unforeseen circumstances will come up when you don't buy a trailer. A trailer for that will be relatively cheap.
 
Phooker said:
just get a trailer and go, a lot of those tow bars don't like little up down angles at all. A lot of unforeseen circumstances will come up when you don't buy a trailer. A trailer for that will be relatively cheap.
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Whats your definition of cheap? I can't find anything safe, even used for under 5k up here.
 
First Coast just bought a bumper pull for the f150 race truck for less than 2k....
 
Phooker said:
First Coast just bought a bumper pull for the f150 race truck for less than 2k....
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Damn. 2k here will get you a trailer than can haul a saturn, neon, or honda. Something small like that.

Time to check Oklahoma craigslist.

EDIT: OKC checked. There's a stupid amount of cheap trailers down there. I can't wait to leave this ****ty state.
 
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I can afford the trailer, hell the tow bar setup is nearly $1500, it's the "where do I put this thing" problem that I run into.

I'd like a big enclosed trailer that I can just store the truck in in my side yard but I wouldn't be able to get it up my driveway (steep angle from the road) plus HOA rules say no trailers visible from the road
 
Ohhhh, f that.

Why don't you tell them to eat **** and die? Or can they kick you out of your house?
 
It has a purpose, keeps the property values up and the place from looking like a slum, If I get a regular goose I could hide it behind my fence but i'll need a non-dovetailed short length goose to get it up my driveway
 
I would look into a storage place to keep the trailer at if I was you. I would not want to flat tow my race truck across town, let alone across the country.
 
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