Fuel pressure gauge help.

Light It Up

Light It Up

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Oct 22, 2008
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Guys Im trying to get a fuel pressure gauge on its way but was looking at some threads of some people liking mechanical and some liking electrical. What are your thoughts. Im gana splice in a T before my injection pump and run a needle valve off of that. Just want some ideas before I order. Thanks

BR
 
The electrical units are only as good as the sending units, I have heard or troubles with the Dipricol senders, not much from the Isspro line and pretty much nothing from the Autometers. Having said that, I don't know that many folks running the Autometers. Mechanical you have to be dang sure you get the air out, and if your line into the cab leaks you have fuel inside the cab.
 
Like stated above, do you want fuel in our cab? I ran a mechanical guage for a while till I got my fass. It only read to 15psi so it was pegged out witht he fass. I never had any problems, just rigged it up with soem fittigs I had layin around. KEpt it down by the floor though just incase...
 
I have a dipricol mechanical gauge and it works fine and is not hard to set up. Just be sure and use an isolator in-line between where you are tapping the fuel line to get the reading and the gauge. You run fuel from the fuel line to the bottom of the isolator and 50/50 water/antifreeze fromt the top side of isolator to the gauge in the cab. That way if it would happen to leak at the gauge, you wont have diesel fuel in your cab.

Setting it all up isn't hard either. First, hook up the line from the fuel line to the bottom of the isolator. Then use the eraser end of a pencil to push the diaphragm all the way down inside the isolator. Fill up the gauge side of the isolator with antifreeze and hook up the line to the gauge. Start the truck and then loosen the bleeder screw on the fuel side of the isolator until all the air is out and you are getting straight fuel and then tighten it back up. You're done.
 
I have a Westech electric gauage and I have never had a problem in 6 years.
 
A mechanical will work fine if you follow the directions above in setting up the isolator (most people skip the step where you use the pencil or chopstick to push the diaphagm down). However, with the reliability of the modern sensors and the ease of installation, I would pick a decent electronic model. Cost is pretty close between the two once you add in the isolator and plumbing.

Regards,
Michael Pliska
 
I've had both... The Autometer electrical I had first worked great, though I went through 2 sending units before the last one finally lasted, but Autometer sent them to me free of charge next day mail, so the customer service was great. I have a mechanical now since I was on a budget and so far it works good. Took awhile to get all the air out though... the needle was bouncy until then.
 
So where can one pick up this isolator? What is the purpose of the isolator? Thanks
 
Most ISSPRO dealers carry our unit, R7797. The isolator is a device that has a diaphragm inside, with ports on either side of the diaphragm. The fuel system supply is hooked up on one side of the diaphragm, and the other side is filled up with anti-freeze, then connected to the gauge. As the fuel pressure rises, it pushes against the diaphragm which in turn compresses the anti-freeze. It allows you to use a mechanical gauge to measure fuel pressure, without bringing fuel into the cab.

Regards,
Michael Pliska
 
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